The COVID-19 pandemic has emerged as one of the worst global crisis in recent history. The rate at which the situation is escalating and the measures that the public administrations have to resolve to are hidden from none.
 
In line with the general health advisory of the Govt of India, DawgieBowl decided to suspend its services w.e.f. March 24th, 2020. As soon as the announcement was made, we were swamped with calls and messages from concerned patrons. We would like to assure everyone that we share their distress, and are working on getting our supply-chain functional at the earliest.

It was neither an impulsive nor an easy decision. It came about after a thorough analysis of the prevalent situation:
 
A nationwide curfew has been enforced from midnight on March 24th. Even though Animal Fodder has been listed as an Essential Service vide Ministry of Home Affairs’ Order No. 40-3/2020-D dated 24-03-2020, there’s still a lot of confusion and uncertainty with the ground staff.
 
The police in Noida and Delhi are providing e-passes for movement during the curfew but our application, like many others, is pending review. Until the passes are awarded, it’s impossible for our staff to travel to work, source raw materials, or deliver finished goods to our customers.
 
It is still unclear if these e-passes will allow us to operate in the Industrial Area. The Noida Authority is yet to issue advisory on the functioning of essential services and their auxiliary industries. All manufacturing units, including ours, have been forced shut under the threat of penalties and punishment.
 
Some of our ingredients are sourced from other states. We are not sure yet how that will pan out. Our delivery partner, FedEx has also suspended services in the wake of the lockdown. Without their support, our outstation deliveries stay impacted. As of now, everyone is in a state of widespread panic and confusion; and no clear answers are available yet.
 
Frequent power cuts act as another deterrent to our process. Since the power loads in Industrial Areas have reduced, the power corporation is redirecting the energy to residential areas that are currently on peak demand. Our process is completely dependent on electricity. An unplanned power cut could result in the loss of valuable process time or even perish of the finished product.
 
Apart from all these, the health and safety of our staff, their families and the community at large still stay our top concern.
 
That said, we’re working tirelessly to secure necessary clearances and permits from all concerned authorities and hope to resume our operations at the earliest.
 
We are working with our vendors to arrange supplies of essential raw material from other states. We are also in talks with logistic providers to resume the nationwide delivery of our product. But we expect some delay before these are sorted out.
 
We are procuring necessary personal protective equipment, and have already purchased due insurance plans to protect our staff members and their families from COVID-19.
 
Our marketing team is working hard to generate literature that will help pet parents around the world through the next few weeks, especially in the unfortunate circumstances of quarantine or hospitalization.
 
Our subscription customers have surplus food supplies to last for the next couple of weeks. And we hope to get back to work before that stock runs out. But in the event that fails to happen, our team is working on a set of backup options for our customers too. Please be assured, we will not let your pets suffer.
 
We are facing one of the biggest healthcare emergencies the world has ever faced. But we will overcome this, together.
 
I anticipate your support and cooperation through these tough times. Stay at home, stay safe!
 
– Abhishek Agarwal
   Founder & Chief Dawgie

March is almost over, and Summers have officially kicked in! Summers are particularly difficult for dogs. Unlike us humans, dogs cannot perspire to cool down. Even though dogs sweat through their paws and nose, their primary method of heat exchange or ‘cooling down’ is by panting. And it takes a lot longer for a dog to cool down relative to a human.
 
Overheating is dangerous and can lead to heat strokes in dogs. Hence, it’s important that we keep our dogs cool and safe during the hot season. Here are 6 summer care tips to keep our dawgies cool as a cucumber this summer. (Ps: Cucumbers are great for dogs in summers!)

6 Hot Tips to Keep Your Pet Dog Cool & Safe in Summer

Keep Your Dog Indoors in the Summer

Don’t lock your dog in a hot car, or leash him on a sunny terrace or anywhere outside. Keep him indoors as much as possible or otherwise in shade. Don’t muzzle him up. It obstructs panting and stops him from cooling down. Prolonged exposure to heat and the inability to cool down can lead to heat strokes in dogs.
 
Thick-coated or snow dog breeds such as Huskies, Mastiffs, Akitas, and St. Bernards should be kept in an air-conditioned area. Dogs with shorter snouts like Bulldogs, Pugs, etc may experience trouble breathing during the hot season.
 
Take your dogs out on walks during colder hours like early mornings or late evenings. Avoid hot surfaces like asphalt or concrete that can burn their paws. If the surface is too hot for you to step on barefoot, it’s definitely too hot for your pet. Dog boots or other similar products can help, but it’s best to avoid walking in the sun.
 

Hydrate Your Dog Often In the Summer

Water is the most important nutrient for your pet during the summer season. Always ensure the continuous availability of fresh drinking water for your dog. Keep his bowls clean and change water periodically to ensure there are no insects. It’s normal that your dog may eat less or stop eating completely due to the heat, but make sure he’s getting the fluids.
 
Unsweetened and unsalted lassi (yogurt + water), buttermilk, coconut water, watery fruits and berries like watermelon, melons, papaya, strawberries, raspberries, cucumber, etc are great to keep your dog hydrated. Here are 6 great fruits that your dog can safely enjoy this summer.
 

Get Your Dog a Summer-Friendly Haircut

Get your dog a summer-friendly haircut. A light but breed-appropriate coat can help your dog feel cooler. But remember – the same coat that makes them feel hot also protects them from the sun. A shaved (or over-trimmed) dog is prone to sunburn, among other skin issues in summers.
 
It’s also important to brush your dog frequently in summers. Brushing your dog’s coat removes the dry/dead skin and makes way for air to reach his coat. This helps to cool down your pet. Dogs are also susceptible to many skin infections during hot weather. Frequent grooming can keep a check on that.
 

Try Water Sports to Cool Your Dog in Summers

Take your dog to a pool or just treat him to a puddle full of mud. He’ll know what to do! This is a great way to cool your dog down. But make sure your dog gets a nice wash after every pool or puddle-session. The chlorine in the pool water may cause skin irritation, if not washed off properly.
 
Your dog would love to sit in damp corners in the house. But make sure he’s always clean and dry after all the wet-fun. Any amount of moisture in this weather can grow into a yeast or fungal infection. Read more about itching & skin issues in dogs.
 

Treat Your Dog to Frozen or Icy Treats in Summers

Dogs love ice and frozen treats in the summer. But it’s not advisable to treat them to a human ice-cream bar every time. Instead, you can try simple DIY recipes to make delicious and healthy frozen treats for your dogs this summer.
 
Not only they help your dog stay cool and hydrated, but they’ll also make a nice Snapchat or Instagram story for you. A simple YouTube search will list out some of our favorite recipes.
 

Watch Your Dog’s Food and Poop this Summer

As mentioned earlier, your dog may act fussy with his food in summers. He may eat less or eat nothing at all for a few days. But don’t let that worry you. Keep his food light, and include loads of fluids in his diets. Try cold foods, fruits and otherwise easily-digestible food items.
 
Observe his poop and report any signs of parasites to your vet. Bacterial and viral infections often make their way to your dog’s body by means of spoiled food during the hot season. Read more on what your dog’s poop can tell you about his health.

Summers may be an uncomfortable time for your pooch, but these simple tips will ensure he’s ready to take on the heat like a boss. Think we missed something? Tell us in the comments below!

If your dog was a human, how old would he or she be? Like all curious pet parents, we’re sure you’ve also wondered what’s your pet’s age in dog years. Probably that’s why you’re here reading. People have been trying to find a good way to convert dog years to human years since the 1200s. One of the earliest examples of this is an inscription at Westminster Abbey that dates back to the year 1268 and calculates that one human year is equivalent to nine dog years.
 
However, recent studies have shown that your pet’s human-equivalent age is not a simple linear equation. We know that dogs age at different rates than humans. Larger breeds tend to age faster and hence have a smaller lifespan than smaller breeds. Compared to humans, dogs age more quickly at the beginning of their lives and slower toward the end. Therefore, calculating your dog’s age relative to yours is a bit tricky, but luckily it’s possible.

Aging in Dogs

Why is it important to know your dog’s age?

Knowing your pet’s age helps you provide for them appropriately. A puppy needs different care than an adult or senior dog. Their training, exercise, veterinary, dietary and even grooming requirements change with their age.
 
Growing puppies have different training & dietary needs than a senior dog. You also need to keep a closer tab on their vaccination schedules while they’re young. As dogs mature, their training and vaccination needs may settle. Of course, their diet will need to change to suit their adult life stage and lifestyle. Their exercise and grooming needs too, may change with age.
 

 
As our pets get older, they need extra care and attention. Aging is not a disease, though senior dogs may develop age-related problems. While it’s easy to spot the outward signs of aging such as greying hair and a slower pace, the changes in pet’s internal organs are far less evident. But their bodies are constantly changing, and their care should support those changes.
 
An older dog is more likely to develop diseases such as diabetes, heart, kidney and liver diseases, arthritis or even cancer. But good care allows them to live happy, healthy and active lives in their senior years. A healthy and balanced diet lowers the risk of developing such life-threatening diseases. Regular veterinary examinations can detect problems in older pets before they turn life-threatening. Tracking your dog’s age helps you plan for appropriate care, prepare for age-related problems and thereby, improve life expectancy and the quality of life.
 

Aging Profiles & Longevity in Dogs

Do all dogs age the same?

The life of a dog is broadly divided into three main stages: Puppyhood, Adult, and Senior (Geriatric). A dog is considered a Puppy during his early growth period. This is when he grows from a tiny lump of fur to full adult size. This is characterized by rapid changes in size and weight. Bones & teeth grow quickly, and the puppy is extremely active and agile. This life stage is equivalent to the first 15-18 years of human life.
 
The dog is considered an Adult as soon as sexual characteristics start appearing, for example, the onset of heat cycles in a female puppy. The dog undergoes many personality and behavioral changes, attaining full emotional maturity over the period of this life stage. This is equivalent to age 20 – 40 years in humans.
 
The Geriatric stage in dogs is marked by a general decrease in activity levels, tendency to sleep more, and fading enthusiasm in walks or other physical activities. In some pets, it’s also the onset of age-related problems that are less common in younger ages. The dogs become less mobile and may develop joint problems such as arthritis, or teeth and gum issues. They also start losing vision, and other senses. This is similar to humans aged beyond 40-50 years of age.
 
Aging profiles in dogs vary across different breeds & adult sizes. In general, larger dogs grow slower in the puppy stage and age faster in the geriatric stage. They also have a shorter lifespan compared to smaller dogs. However, exceptions may be noted depending on breeds and living conditions.
 

Dog Years VS Human Years

The terms “dog years” and “human years” are frequently used when describing the age of a dog. However, there are two diametrically opposite, almost conflicting nomenclature systems in which these terms are defined. Both systems are correct and widely used.

1. The first system uses “human year” to represent a 365-day long calendar year. “Dog year” is the equivalent time of the dog’s lifetime, as a calendar year would be for a human. For example, a 5-year-old dog would be 5 human years or about 36 dog years old.
2. The second system uses “dog year” to represent a calendar year in a dog’s life. “Human year” is the equivalent age of a human being. In this system, a 5-year-old dog is considered to be 5 dog years or about 36 human years old. This is the exact opposite of the first system, and the nomenclature we’ll use throughout this article.

Calculating Your Dog’s Age in Human Equivalent

For years, people have been quoting the Seven-Year Rule – that 1 dog year is equivalent to 7 human years. However, this rule does not take into account the breed or size of the dogs. The origin of the seven-year rule (read: myth) is unknown. It’s believed that the formula was devised on the assumption that people lived to about 70, and dogs to about 10 years of age, approximately. Similarly, several other formulas have been suggested, but none scientifically proven correct or consistent enough.
 
The American Veterinary Medical Association suggests the following as the most acceptable guideline to calculate your dog’s age equivalent to human years.

1. The first year of the puppy’s life is equivalent to 15 human years.
2. The second dog year equals about 9 human years.
3. Thereafter, each dog year converts to about 4 human years until the dog reaches their geriatric stage.
4. Larger dogs age faster than smaller dogs in their geriatric stage – each dog year in this stage is equivalent to 6 human years for larger breeds, 4 human years for smaller dogs.

There are several factors to consider while estimating the age of dogs and not all of them can be documented precisely. The National Center for Health Statistics doesn’t keep records for dogs. Instead, there are three main sources for data on the longevity of dogs: pet-insurance companies, breed-club surveys, and veterinary hospitals.
 
The longevity studies include studying the lifespans and medical histories of several hundreds of dogs from various size classification, breeds and age groups. The results are compiled and generalized for public use. It is important to understand that these numbers are merely indicative, and do not represent the exact physical and mental state of your furry baby.
 

Estimating Age when Birth Details are Unknown

If you’ve adopted a rescued dog, his exact birth details and history may not be known. This may make it even more complicated to calculate the dog’s age. However, a fair estimate of a puppy’s age can be made by looking at the physical characteristic of the dog – especially the teeth.
 
When a puppy is born, he’s toothless, and his eyes and ears are closed. They open their eyes in about 2 weeks, the ears take about 3 weeks to open. This is also when the first teeth start appearing. The puppy will have a full set of 28 baby teeth by 6 – 8 weeks of age.
 
At about 2 months of age, the temporary teeth will start falling as the adult teeth push them out. By the age of 7 – 8 months, all temporary milk teeth will be replaced with a full set of 42 clean white permanent adult dog teeth.
 
As the dog turns adult, the teeth will become a little dull and yellowing may be noticed in the rear teeth by the age of 1 – 2 years. This is a good time to start a brushing routine with your dog. At age 3 – 5 years, some tartar buildup and wearing are noticed. By 5 – 10 dog years, signs of tooth wear and dental diseases get more prominent.
 
With geriatric dogs, heavy tartar buildup may be noticed by the age of 12 – 15 dog years. Some teeth may be missing or loose. Cloudy eyes, grey hair around the muzzle, eyes, and face, loosening skin and stiff legs are other signs of aging dogs.
 

 

Effects of Aging in Dogs

Dogs and humans age similar in the way their bodies change. Senior dogs are often less active and playful. They love sleeping and avoid running, jumping or other physical exercises. They become more sensitive to changing weather conditions and may develop digestive or skin issues more frequently. They’re prone to a number of diseases and may lose interest in play or daily activities.
 
Some age-related effects observed in aging dogs are:

• Loss of vision and/or hearing
• Loss of teeth and periodontal diseases
• Decreased activity, lower energy levels (partly due to reduced lung efficiency)
• Frequent gastric & stomach upset, and decreased digestive tolerance
• Weight gain & obesity
• Weakened immunity, increasing infections
• Diabetes
• Weakness in muscles & bones
• Drying, darkening and brittle skin, loss or greying of hair
• Thicker and more brittle nails
• Arthritis, hip dysplasia, and other joint problems
• Urinary issues or toilet-accidents (incontinence in both genders and prostatitis in male dogs)
• Cardiac & respiratory issues due to reduced heart and lung efficiency
• Cysts and tumors
• Unusual aggression or irritability
• Dementia or confused/disoriented behavior

Factors Affecting Life Expectancy

The average life expectancy of a randomly-bred dog (also known as mongrel or mutt) is 13.2 dog years. However, it varies greatly across breeds and dogs living in different conditions. As we’ve seen in the table above, larger dogs have a shorter lifespan than smaller dogs. Many attempts have been made to study this relation between breeds/size and longevity, but no conclusive results have been found.
 
The Dog Aging Project is studying the aging process in dawgies, using geroscience research to “delay aging and promote healthy longevity.” Some of the factors that impact life expectancy in pet dogs are:
 

1. Diet – Your dog’s food greatly impacts his life and longevity. Pets that feed on a balanced and complete diet generally live longer and are healthier than those that are fed a packaged commercial, or otherwise unbalanced diet. Read more about how food can change your dog.
2. Spaying and Neutering – Whether your dog is sterilized or intact, and the procedure used to sterilize your pet may impact their life expectancy. While some studies have shown that spaying and neutering may reduce the risk of early deaths in dogs, some other studies show different, rather contradictory results. Thus, careful deliberation is needed before you decide to get your pet spayed or neutered.
3. Exercise – A tired dog is a healthy dog. Your pet is likely to stay healthier when his body and senses are constantly exercised. The exercise your dog receives must be appropriate to suit his life stage. A puppy needs more physical exertion while a senior dog must be engaged in more mental exercises to keep them healthy and happy.

One of the most important aspects of good pet parenting is to understand your dog’s needs. It starts by planning and providing age-appropriate care to your darling. Watching a puppy grow into a beautiful old dog is perhaps the most beautiful experience ever. Participating and positively contributing to the process is the next best.

Hi, we got a new puppy! 🐶 Yes, we did, and he’s sooooooooooo adorable. He’s just the cutest little thing on Earth. That tiny face, floppy ears, and droopy eyes; it’s just the best feeling ever, to wake up to them. ❤️ But wait, he’s growing so fast, and he’s getting so naughty. I love him! But he has to play all night; oh boy, and he just doesn’t let me sleep. He’s chewing my mom’s favorite furniture. Oh no, puppy! Don’t pee there!
 
If you’ve recently got a new puppy home, this will sound relatable! If you’re about to get one, you should know that this is what you’re signing up for. There will be days when you’ll curse yourself for bringing in the little imp. And yet, your little pupper will be the best thing that ever happened to you! You’ll spend countless nights without sleep, nursing or attending to him when he’s unwell, or entertaining him when he’s not in a mood to sleep. He’ll be your life. And you’ll go to any extent to keep him safe and happy, always.

A puppy comes with a lot of responsibilities. Just like a newborn baby, a new pet needs all your love, care and attention. He’s dependent on you for everything – food, shelter and even his toilet-needs. And the responsible pet parents that we aspire to be, it’s on us to try and do the best for our darling little puppers.
 
Let’s look at what puppy care involves and how to raise a healthy, friendly and confident dog!

• How to Plan a New Puppy
• Choosing the Right Puppy
• Where to Get the Puppy From
• How to Prepare Yourself for the Puppy
• Puppy-proofing your Home
• Puppy’s Shopping List
• Clearing Your Schedule
• How to Name your Puppy
• Puppy’s Food & Nutrition
• How to Choose the Best Puppy Food
• Feeding Schedule for Puppies
• Modifying Diet for a Growing Puppy
• Banned Food Items for a Dog
• How to Train & Socialize your Puppy
• Toilet-Training your Puppy
• Puppy Socialization
• Basic Training for Puppies
• How to Exercise & Play with your Puppy
• Health Checkups & Puppy Vaccinations
• Puppy Grooming & Other Needs

Planning a New Puppy

If you’re looking to bring in a new family member, it’s important to plan it well. While most of us would never say No to a puppy, it’s always a good idea to take a rational approach and responsibly plan a puppy rather than getting one in impulse. As tiny as they look, puppies are a lot of work. You must be committed to accept them in your life and everything they bring along.
 
If you’re already past this stage, you can skip to the next section below. Although, we’d strongly recommend to continue reading still.
 
The process of planning a puppy starts with assessing your resources and needs. Few questions you should ask yourself before choosing a puppy are:

1. Why do I need a puppy?
   You may need a companion animal or there may be a special need (e.g. protection, service or therapy dog). Choose a dog breed that’s best-suited for the job. Some dogs are more independent than others – you may not find your cuddle-buddy in them.
2. What part of the world do I live in?
   Not all dogs thrive in all weather conditions. It’s important to get a dog that can not just survive, but thrive in the local conditions. For example, the extreme hot temperatures of Delhi are not suitable for Huskies or some Mastiffs. They’re more apt for hills and colder areas up north.
3. How much time can I (and my family) dedicate to the puppy?
   By default, all puppies demand a lot of time, playing, training and socializing. Some high-energy breeds, like the Beagles may demand more time even when fully grown up. If you cannot dedicate a lot of time, adopting an older dog may be a better option. Sure you may miss out on their puppyhood, but adult and senior dogs are also a lot of fun!
4. How much space do I have in my home?
   Puppies grow quickly. Larger dogs may grow into their full size before you know it. And they need space to run, play and jump around. If you live in an apartment with limited space, smaller dogs like pugs, shih tzus, lhasa apsos, poodles, spitz, pomeranians, etc would be more appropriate than larger breeds like the German shepherds, labradors, golden retrievers, great danes, etc.
5. Can I feed the puppy a species-appropriate diet?
   Dogs are carnivores. Sure, they can digest plant matter too, but the bulk of their diet (proteins & fats) must come from animal sources. A dog can survive on veg food, but he’ll need a species-appropriate, non-vegetarian diet to thrive. This is particularly important during the early years of the dog. If you’re a vegetarian household, look for packaged pet food options that can deliver meat-based nutrients to your pup. However, read the labels carefully before making your pick.
6. Are others in my family comfortable with a new puppy?
   Many puppies get abandoned because even though the family got him home, someone in their pack wasn’t comfortable with him. It could be an existing pet insecure around other dogs, an elderly who is allergic to dog hair, or a kid who takes up all the time. A new puppy is a family decision. Before you decide to get the new puppy home – make sure EVERYBODY in your family, including your current pets are comfortable with the idea.
7. Do I live in a pet-friendly neighborhood?
   A dog needs to run around, bigger dogs more than smaller ones. If you live in a neighborhood that doesn’t allow pets in common spaces, or are generally hostile towards animals – chances are your pet will always have to be on a leash. If your neighbors often complain of noise, you don’t want a Beagle or any other loud breed.
8. How much can I spend on my dog?
   We all want to give the best to our pets. But aspirations must suit the pockets. Larger dogs typically eat more food than smaller ones. Long-coated dogs may need more grooming than others. Exotic or sensitive breeds may need frequent vet visits – all of these cost money. There may always be unexpected diseases or accidents that may attract additional spend. You must plan your expenses and allocate budgets based on the puppy you plan to get.

After you’ve carefully deliberated on these questions, pick a breed that fits your needs and resources. Every puppy is different. Some dog breeds take more time, effort and money than others. They all us give unconditional love and affection, but it’s important to pick a dog that you can love and care for without compromises.

ALSO READ: How to Choose Your Next Dog: Types of Dog Breeds

It’s also pertinent to study the specific traits of the dog breed you select. Dogs also age differently. Larger dogs age quickly and have a shorter life expectancy than smaller dogs. Understanding your puppy’s aging profile and genetic makeup helps you stay prepared for future problems or diseases. It also enables you to provide the most appropriate and deserving care to your puppy.
 

 

Adopt, Don’t Shop. Foster, whenever possible!

Once you’ve decided the dog breed that you want to bring home, reach out to your nearest pet adoption center or contact a dog breeder. Stay clear of backdoor breeders and puppy mills, they produce and sell puppies in the most unethical and illegitimate way imaginable. Often such puppies are prone to many genetic disorders or other diseases. Whenever possible, adopt and not shop. If you’re looking for an adult dog, adoption is the best way to go. But if you must get a specific breed of puppy that’s not up for adoption, ensure that he comes from a trusted and reliable breeder. You can also adopt from a friend or family, if they’ve recently had a litter.

ALSO READ: Reasons to Adopt Your Next Dog, Not Shop

There are few things you must find out about the puppy before getting him home. This is especially important if you’re adopting a rescued puppy or older dog.

1. Age of the puppy or the dog.
2. Under what circumstances was the puppy rescued, was there any trauma or injury?
3. If the pup was given up by another family, the reason for abandonment.
4. Mother’s history and if the puppy got enough mother’s milk and nursing, etc. (very important with breeder pups)
5. Medical, vaccination & desexing history, if any.
6. Any quirks or behavioral issues in the dog, like picky eating, anxiety, aggression, etc.

You can also foster a puppy before committing to adopt him for life. It’s a test drive for how well the puppy can accommodate in your home. And more importantly, how well can you fulfil his needs. Fostering a puppy also helps you understand if your existing pet will accept the new one, and how well others in your family adjust to the new pet. If anything goes off the track, you can always shift the pet to another foster home. This saves you from the guilt of giving up on a pet, and the regret to take on a responsibility that you weren’t fully prepared for.
 

Getting Puppy-Ready

Once you’re committed to get home a new puppy, it’s time you make your home and life puppy-ready. Preparing your home and yourself for the little one will save any accident or unpleasant situations.
 

Puppy-proof Your Home

Everything from the trivial slipper to that expensive china, is a toy for your puppy. The pup won’t know the difference between appropriate and inappropriate toys (just yet!). You will have to teach him appropriate play, but in the meantime, you absolutely have to be careful about ensuring your home is puppy-friendly.
 
Puppies explore new objects the only two ways they know how to – by sniffing and by putting them in their mouth. For their safety, be very careful about putting sharp objects, breakables, valuables and toxic substances and food items away.

1. Keep the scissors, knives, razors and any other sharp objects away.
2. Small objects, kids’ toys, jewellery or anything that can be swallowed must be kept away. They can be a choking hazard.
3. Shoes, clothes, books and other belongings could be interesting chew toys for the puppy. They must be kept out of his reach to avoid damage to property.
4. Cables, wires and other electrical fittings must be concealed or covered. Chewing on them may give your puppy an electric shock.
5. Roll away your carpets & rugs until your pup is toilet-trained.
6. Trash cans and kitchen bins must be made inaccessible to your pup.
7. Many human food items are toxic to dogs, and may result in fatal results even in small doses. Here are 10 Human Foods that are Toxic for your Puppy.
8. Keep medication and drugs away at all times. Many human pills are toxic to pets.
9. Watch your puppy’s behavior around indoor plants. They might find the mud interesting to chew on. Some garden plants and shrubs may also be toxic for them.

 
Additionally, you should dedicate a small enclosed space indoors where the puppy will spend the first few days. This enclosure can be setup using a playpen or by creating temporary fencing in a corner of the room. Food and water bowls, some toys and the puppy’s bed must be placed within this enclosure. The area should be well-lit, properly ventilated and temperature controlled. It must also be out of bounds of children or other pets. The idea is to provide a safe haven for the puppy, while he familiarizes himself to the sights, sounds and smells in your house. This enclosure will also help in toilet-training your puppy. More on that below.
 

Get All the Things Needed

A dog doesn’t need a lot to survive. But it’s important that you bring in all the essentials before the puppy arrives home. So you have everything the two of you will need over the course of first few weeks. Here are some of the things you’ll need to get for your new puppy:

1. Two flat, stainless steel or ceramic bowls, one for food and the other for drinking water. Avoid plastic or other synthetic material.
2. A puppy-size collar & leash
3. A dawgie bed or mattress (or an old rug)
4. A puppy-coat, if you’re getting the puppy in winters or if you live in a cold region
5. Soft chew-toys
6. Puppy food and supplies
7. A crate or pet carrier, large enough for your dog’s breed
8. Playpen or portable fences to create an enclosure
9. Old newspapers, lots of them
10. Toilet rolls or paper towels
11. Disinfectant, pet-friendly floor cleaner

Clear Your Calendar

The first few months of your puppy’s life are the most important ones. Your pup demands your undivided time and attention during this period. He’ll need to be fed, played with, cleaned after him – every few hours for at least the first few weeks of his life. You’ll also have to gradually start training him.
 
Thus, it’s important that you plan your calendar to make sufficient time for your new family member. Try and work from home as much as possible, giving maximum facetime to your puppy. Avoid any travel for the first few weeks – you cannot leave your puppy alone, and you definitely can’t leave him at a boarding or kennel until his vaccinations are complete.
 

Naming Your Puppy

The first thing you do after getting a puppy home is picking a name for him or her. Or if you’re as crazy as us, you’ve probably chosen a name long before you got him home. Naming your puppy appropriately is extremely important. Your puppy’s name must be simple, short and easy to understand. It must ideally be 2 or 3 syllables long, and must not be a word that’s used in common parlance. Otherwise, your puppy may get desensitized to its sound and may not respond when called.
 
It’s also important to use only one name to address your pet. While you can use any number of cute names and adjectives to describe him on your Instagram, it’s important that everybody in the family only calls your pup by the same name. Otherwise, the puppy will get confused and won’t respond appropriately. We’ve discussed how to teach your puppy his name and establish recall in the Puppy Training section below.
 

Food and Nutrition for Puppies

The most important aspect of puppy care is their food. Once you get the puppy home, the one thing that he’ll care about the most is his food. Puppies are always hungry, and love to eat. They grow at a rapid pace, and need a lot to support that growth.
 
A puppy must build strong bones & teeth, muscles, tissues and a healthy & functional immune system in his early growth months. His brain is also developing rapidly, processing and registering new experiences every day. All of this requires energy & essential nutrients. Your puppy will become what he eats. That is why, it’s extremely important to provide him balanced & complete nutrition.
 

 

Choosing the Best Puppy Food

Puppy nutrition, sadly, is also the most neglected concept in pet care. Most breeders or vets may recommend cereal-based or otherwise synthetic food preparations for your puppy. They do provide the energy, but fail to deliver all nutrients in the right proportion. Commercial packaged pet foods tend to cause more damage to your puppy than good. They contain byproducts, fillers, preservatives, colors & flavors – all of which are detrimental to your puppy’s health.

ALSO READ: The Truth Behind Commercial Packaged Pet Foods

Ideally, a puppy should feed on mother’s milk for as long as possible. Mother’s milk provides essential antibodies to the pup, along with important nutrients. It provides immunity against common diseases in puppies and aids growth & development. The puppy should gradually wean off to solid food after 6 – 8 weeks of age. If you’ve adopted a rescued case, or the puppy was separated from the mother before 6 weeks, extra case must be taken to ensure that your puppy’s food delivers all essential nutrients to build a strong immunity and growth.

Do not feed milk to your puppy – all puppies are lactose intolerant and may get diarrhea with milk. Diarrhea is fatal for puppies as they get dehydrated very quickly. The only exception to this is diluted goat’s milk.

When choosing a food for your puppy, look for something that’s rich in meat-based proteins and fats – your puppy need a lot of those. The food must also provide a balance of vitamins & minerals to facilitate healthy growth. When choosing pet foods, read the labels carefully and only pick something that’s completely safe for your puppy. Puppy tummies are very sensitive and cannot digest most ingredients that commercial diets include.

ALSO READ: How to Choose the Best Pet Food for your Dog

If you choose to cook for your puppy at home, make sure the recipe is balanced by a qualified pet nutritionist or vet. Also keep clear of multivitamin supplements meant for humans, some of these could be toxic to puppies.
 

Feeding Schedule for Puppies

Puppies need to eat many times a day. Even though they need a lot of food, their tummies are small and can only accommodate small quantities at a time without distending. Hence, it’s advisable to divide their daily portion in 5 – 6 smaller servings. Feed one serving every 2 – 3 hours, or as needed. Do not leave the food in their bowl all day. This disrupts the feeding times as the puppy may eat whenever he feels like, leading to behavioral issues in later life. The puppy may also overeat, leading to potential bloating issues.
 

Upgrading Puppy Diet Based on Age, Size & Breed

Puppies age rapidly. Their nutritional requirements change rapidly too. Hence, a puppy’s diet must be upgraded constantly to provide sufficient nutrition to sustain his breed, size and age. It’s important to monitor your pup’s weight every few days and modify their diet accordingly. However, don’t make too many changes in the constituents of the diet too frequently, else your puppy may soon turn picky about his food.

ALSO READ: Aging in Dogs & Age-Appropriate Pet Care

As your puppy grows, you can experiment with fruits and other organic food items. Fruits & vegetables provide essential vitamins & minerals to your pet, adding very few calories and a lot of water & roughage to their diet. Many fruits can be safely used as low-calorie treats for puppies. Just make sure the fruit is puppy-safe and diced into small pieces, so the puppy doesn’t choke on it.
 

Prohibited Food Items for Puppies

Many human food items are toxic to pets, even in small quantities. Your puppy cannot distinguish between safe and unsafe food items yet. That’s why, it’s important that you identify such items and keep them away from your pupper. Table salt, sugar, sugar-free or sugar-substituted foods, onions, garlic, citrus fruits like lemon & oranges, grapes & raisins, nuts, chocolate, tea, coffee or other beverages, like aerated drinks, beer & alcohol must be kept away from puppies at all times. Avoid feeding table scraps to your puppy – not only they may have salt & sugar, many spices and even oils can cause diarrhea. Cooked bones may cause choking and internal injuries. Always keep the puppy away from the kitchen bins, else he may raid them in search for scraps.
 
Medication and drugs meant for human use must be kept away at all times. Many common household medicines are fatal for dogs, more so to puppies because of higher relative dosage to their size. Also keep your pups away from toothpastes, gums, cigarettes, candles, cosmetics, soaps, detergents and other cleaning reagents. At their age, everything is either potential food or a toy.
 

Puppy Training & Socialization

Like human babies, puppies learn from experiences. They associate actions to their consequences based on the response they receive from their surroundings. For example, if a puppy attempts to climb, and receives an appreciation or reward for it, he’ll attach a positive experience to the activity (climbing). Similarly, if he receives a negative feedback for an activity, such as biting a shoe – he’ll automatically learn that it’s an unwanted behavior.
 
Puppies start learning from the moment they open their eyes. That is why, it’s important to start house-training your puppy as soon as he steps into your home & life. However, take note that it’s not a spontaneous process and may take several attempts before your puppy can learn and retain things. Trainability may also differ across breeds and individual puppies. It requires exemplary patience and discipline to raise your puppy right – but that’s what responsible parenting is all about.
 

 

Potty Training Your Puppy

Toilet-training your puppy will be the first of the many exercises you’ll take up as a new puppy-parent. From the time the puppy enters your home, cleaning up after him will take up the most of your time and effort. Not only does your pup have a small stomach, but also small bladders. Hence, he’ll need to relieve himself often, every few hours in fact. And naturally, you’ll have to clean up after. So it’s only practical that you start training him to pee and poop at the right place from the very start. It’s also hygienic & safe for the puppy and the rest of the family.
 
When the puppy first arrives home, place him indoors in a small enclosed space. You can use a playpen or temporary fencing to create an enclosure. Preferably, at a location where you can observe the puppy from all corners of the house. Keep the enclosure big enough for the puppy to move around without feeling restricted. Cover the floor of the enclosure with old newspapers. You puppy may tear some of these up, so frequent replacement may be needed.
 
As soon as the puppy relieves himself, clean it up, wipe the floor with a pet-safe disinfectant (DIY Neem Water works best) and replace the newspaper. You’ll have to be quick with the clean-up, else your pup may decide to play in his own poop, or worse, eat it. Also, don’t forget to praise him for being such a good boy, after every bio-break he takes.
 
Every few days, increase the size of the enclosure so your pup has more space to explore. And gradually decrease the size of the newspaper patch on the floor. By now your puppy would have associated pooping on the newspaper as a praiseworthy action. Encourage this even more by appreciating him every time he poops on the newspaper patch. Play with him, baby-talk and even treat after successful attempt. No punishment or feedback must be given in case the puppy fails to comply. No positive response or undue attention must be given either. Just clean the floor like usual and wait for the next turn. Remember, praise when he poops on the newspaper; no attention when on the floor.
 
By the time your puppy is about 6 – 8 weeks old, he would have learned to poop only on the newspaper patch, even though he’d be free to roam around the house. Puppies pick up toilet-habits really quickly. Instinctively, a dog doesn’t poop inside his territory. Once it has been established that the entire house is his territory, he’ll designate his spot to pee and poop. As he grows, the frequency will reduce too. At this time, you can start taking him out for potty-walks. Time the walks every few hours to match your puppy’s routine. Keep an eye on your puppy’s body language and take him out for walks on observing any cues.
 
As always, appreciate him on every positive pooping routine. Do not punish him for any toilet-accidents or mishaps that occur in the home. It’s okay to make mistakes, he’s a puppy, he’s still learning. Just remember to not give undue attention to and erroneously encourage accidents.
 
Toilet-training is a gradual process. Most pets pick up the cues very quickly and toilet-train themselves within a few weeks, but following a structured approach makes it simpler for both of you. It’s important to not rush things up, stay patient and keep trying consistently with your puppy. Take help from a professional, if needed or watch some YouTube videos to familiarize yourself with the drill.
 
Also, stay vigilant for any signs of abnormal poop. Your puppy’s poop can tell you volumes about his health. Your pet’s poop is where the first signs of disease or an infection show up. Cases of diarrhoea or loose motions must be immediately attended to. Diarrhoea can rapidly drain water from a puppy’s body, leading to fatal dehydration.
 

Socializing Your Puppy

Socialization is not just experiencing new things; it is to do so in a positive manner! This process is absolutely critical to raise a healthy, calm and confident dog. Apart from the basic training commands, you must also expose them to new people, smells and sounds.
 
Your puppy’s critical socialization period lasts only up to 12 – 14 weeks of age. Thus, you have a limited window to ensure your puppy gains a range of positive experiences. Unfortunately, you can’t take them out often until all their vaccinations are done – until 16 weeks of age. So you’ll have to get creative with it. You can start socializing your puppy as early as 4 – 5 weeks of age. But exercise caution and moderation while going about it.

1. If you have other pets or children in the house, you can gradually start introducing them to the puppy at this stage. Start by leaving them on either side of the enclosure and progress gradually. But make sure they’re always under your supervision. Children must be taught to handle the puppy with care, and not mistreat him by hitting, pulling hair, etc. Else the puppy may develop a sense of fear and resentment towards children. If your existing pet is not friendly with puppies, it’s best to keep them apart for some more time, until they both get comfortable with each other.
2. Throw a party, invite your friends and family over. Or take your pup out to work or to friends’. In addition to making new friends, you puppy can experience new people, smells, different types of handling and learn to trust & like humans.
3. YouTube has some amazing sounds of thunderstorms, traffic, barking dogs and doorbells. You could try playing them at a low volume to get your dog used to such sounds (consult a behaviorist if you notice or suspect anxious or fear responses).
4. Go on drives in cars and auto rickshaws! Not only this exposes your puppy to new smells and sounds, it ensures he doesn’t grow up to have motion sickness. It could be very difficult to take your dog to the vet or other places, if he can’t travel comfortably. Crate training is important to ensure smooth & safe travel with your pet.
5. Take your puppy out to parks or pet-friendly indoor spaces (with no other dogs around in the duration, to avoid infections through contact). Play with them in the balcony, terrace or any safe outdoor space.

Basic Training for Puppies

Training your dog is about establishing communication with your puppy. A well-trained dog understands his handler’s commands and body language. It’s also much simpler to control a trained dog. From establishing a reliable recall to understanding basic commands such as No, Leave It, Sit, and Stay, training your puppy is the key to raising a calm and friendly dog.
 
When training your pup, start as early as possible. The first step is to choose a quiet place with little or no distractions for your puppy. Next, try to establish recall. To do this, call out their name and wait for them to respond. You can use hand gestures initially to draw their attention, but gradually scale back to the verbal call alone. Reward every successful response with treats or toys, and loads of appreciation with some belly rubs. Repeat this over and over, with increasing distractions and at different places. This will teach your puppy to identify and respond to his name.
 
After establishing recall, the next step is to teach your puppy his first commands. Start with something basic as “No” or “Leave it”. They can help prevent damage to important property. You can then graduate to more advanced commands. For more hands-on assistance, you can refer to one of the many training videos on YouTube or find a trainer for your puppy.
 

Exercise & Playing With Your Puppy

Puppies love to play. If they’re not eating or sleeping, they’ll probably be playing. Playing includes all the puppy activities performed to explore the world. From chewing on your favorite pair of shoes, to digging up a series of holes in the garden – it’s all play for your pupper. But as he grows, he’ll learn to differentiate between appropriate and inappropriate play. This is where your pup may need your help.
 
Play routines should be devised to employ both – physical and mental abilities of your pet. It could be something as simple as a game of fetch, or something more complex like a treasure-hunt. The game you play should be appropriate to your pet’s aptitude and age. Remember to involve training commands in your play routines. It’s a great idea to train your puppy while playing, by using toys or playtime as reward.
 

 
Puppies love to chew. They chew on a variety of surfaces to relieve their teething instinct. However, if your pup is chewing on items that he shouldn’t, you must stop him. Commands like “No” and “Leave it” come handy here. You must redirect them to a safe chewing surface. Keep a range of chew toys readily available so as to avoid damage to property.
 
Chew toys must ideally made of different materials such as cloth, jute, wood, or pet-safe rubber. They must be large enough to not pose a choking hazard to your pup. But small enough that he’s still able to hold, pick and carry them around. Stay clear of rawhide bones or chew products as they may be extremely toxic for your pet. Remember to never leave your puppy unsupervised around toys.
 
Walking your puppy may be a great exercise as well as socialization experience. Your puppy can not only relieve himself on the walk, he can experience new sights, sounds and smells along the way – not to mention, the cardio you both get! However, walking your puppy may require some preparation. Start by making your pup comfortable to the collar and leash, and then gradually introduce them to the outside world. Here’s more on how to walk your dog.
 
Make sure your puppy has an elaborate play routine daily. A tired dog is a happy dog. Not exerted enough, the puppy will resort to destructive behavior. Unless your puppy sleeps like a child after every play session, you’re not doing it right. But as always, stay vigilant for any abnormalities during walks or playtime. If you pup seems to show signs of discomfort or limps while walking, or looks disoriented, report it to your vet.
 

Health Checkup & Puppy Vaccinations

You must take the puppy to the vet within the first few days. Your vet will weigh your dog, run necessary medical exams, and suggest their vaccinations and deworming routine. You must follow up with your vet as recommended and ensure your pup is always up to date with his shots!
 

 
Puppy DP vaccination usually starts at 5 – 8 weeks of age. The Rabies vaccine is given at 12 weeks of age. Before this time, it’s advisable to keep your puppy away from other pets and strays. Else they may contract an infection. However, the vaccination requirement and schedule for your pup could be different based on his history and medical condition. Ask your vet for more details.
 
You must also initiate discussions around sterilizing your puppy. Even though you still have time before you can take the final call on it, it’s good to start evaluating early. Unless your pet needs to be neutered or spayed for a medical reason, assess the need on its merits. There are both, benefits and risks of neutering or spaying your pet. However, carefully analyzing the need of your pet, and performing the procedure at the correct age can help you redeem maximum benefits with minimum risks to your pup.
 

Puppy Grooming & Other Needs

Your puppy doesn’t really need much grooming during the first 3 – 4 months of his age. Since he won’t be venturing out in the dirt a lot, he’ll be mostly clean. You mustn’t bathe your pup for the first 3 months of his age. And only when the weather is warm & dry. If needed, you can wipe him with a hot towel once in a week or two. Refrain from using dry shampoos or any other products. Your puppy’s skin and coat is very sensitive, and may react adversely with any of these products.
 
Moisture and exposure to mud & grass can increase the risk of ticks & fleas. Puppies are at a high risk of developing Demodectic Mange, also known as the Red Mange or Puppy Mange. This is caused by an increase in the population of the Demodex mite, that are normally found in dogs. These mites are harmless in controlled population, but a weakened immune system or an infection can lead to their overpopulation, causing skin lesions, itching and rapid hair loss. The condition will heal itself in about 90% cases just by feeding a healthy & balanced diet. However, if the problem lingers, long term medication may be needed.
 
Do not use any anti-tick or anti-flea product on your puppies. These products contain pesticide compounds which may be toxic to your pup at his age. Refrain from trimming hair or clipping nails. Your puppy may accidentally hurt himself while being a puppy. You can start a brushing routine once he starts eating solid food. Although he doesn’t need much dental care at this stage, it’s always good to build a habit early. Never use human toothpaste for your dog, it may kill your pet.

Puppyhood is a very important stage for both, you and your puppy. While your pup picks up lessons for life ahead, you also learn a thing or two about parenting. Your experience parenting a puppy is in no way less than raising a kid. It’s to be credited for making your pup a little bit of you, and making you a little more of your dog. In the end, the only thing we can complain about is that our dogs are puppies only once.

You know the drill – you set out a bowl of the most appetizing pet food in front of your pooch and instead of digging in it joyfully with tongue and teeth, he sniffs it, licks it a little maybe, gives you that disappointed shrug and walks away. And that repeats bowl after bowl, and meal after meal.
 
We understanding how heartbreaking it is to try everything possible to feed your picky dog and still fail. You try hand-feeding the food, topping it up with treats or a little hooman-food to make it more acceptable, even pretend to eat and like the food yourself in the hopes that your dog would reciprocate. But your dog doesn’t seem impressed. We feel your pain!

Every parent wants their kids to eat well, and stay happy and healthy. Naturally, it’s a huge cause of concern if your dog turns out to be a picky eater, or turns into one.
 
Fussy or selective eating may have many different forms. Different dogs are differently selective about the things they eat. Hence, it could be a bit tricky to address your dog’s picky eating habits. And it may often time require more than one or several attempts and different ways to fix them. Almost all picky dogs can be conditioned to eat normally, but it requires exemplary patience and dedication (and some tough parenting) from your end.
 

Types of Picky or Selective Eating Behavior in Dogs

First of all, it’s important to understand if your dog is a picky eater or is just selective about what he eats. Some dogs may like to eat some foods but not others. And that’s normal, except if the only things he likes to eat are unhealthy. It’s just different personalities with different preferences, like hoomans. However, if your pup often gets “bored” of his food after a few days or refuses to eat what he loved until last week, we may have a problem. If your pup is a growing one and is starting to reject only certain food items, he may be developing a taste against them. If you’ve had the dog in your family for a while, we feel you understand the pattern by now.
 
Picky dogs are often characterized by heaps of food always lying in their bowls, from one meal to the next. Their parents are often characterized by heaps of different brands of pet foods stashed in the house, and internet search history like “my dog won’t eat”, “how to feed my fussy dog”, “how to convince my dog to eat”, etc.
 
Please note that if your dog has only recently become fussy about his food, or has shown a sudden loss of appetite, it could be a sign of illness. Please take your dog for a veterinary check-up immediately.
 

 

Dogs are NOT born Picky. It’s an Acquired Trait!

Let’s begin by getting this straight, no dog is fussy by birth. Dogs are opportunistic hunters by nature. This means they scavenge food when given the opportunity. That’s how wild dogs became domesticated – it was easy to find food among hoomans, and over time they became less and less wary of us until eventually, they became our best friend. This inherent scavenging behavior continues and is still strong in all healthy dogs today.
 
However, man’s company has taught them a thing or two. A domesticated dog knows that he’ll never run out of food. Even if he skips a meal, he’ll get the next one. And if he doesn’t eat this one, he has a better chance of getting something he enjoys even more. And that is what happens really, doesn’t it?
 
When your dog refuses to eat his usual meal [low-value meal – according to your dog], you replace it with chicken or eggs (or something else that he loves) [high value]. If he refuses to eat that, you replace it with something more tempting (pour a little gravy on it, or sprinkle some treats on it) [higher value]. Most dogs understand these relative high and low values very well. No dog would starve himself, but he can very well skip a low-value meal or two in the hopes of getting a high-value food item.
 

Why do Dogs turn Picky or Selective about their Food?

Depending on what the exact pattern of your dog’s selective eating habit is, there could be several reasons driving his fussy nature. Let’s look at some of the probable causes, starting from the least likely to the most commonly observed ones.
 

Medical Causes

When a dog won’t eat, the condition is called anorexia. If your dog refuses to eat at all or eats only very minute quantities and is rapidly losing body condition (symptoms of starving), there could be medical reasons responsible for it. A blockage somewhere in the gastrointestinal tract or an ulcer somewhere in the mouth or stomach, or even a kidney or liver malfunction could be stopping your dog from eating. A thorough check-up with your vet can help identify the exact cause.
 
If your dog has only temporarily stopped eating, it may not necessarily be one of these causes, but you may still want to check with a vet for any possible infections, inflammations or illness.
 
Elder dogs may have trouble with eating food that’s too hard to chew or swallow. Sometimes a broken or loose tooth, severe gingivitis and an oral tumor could also stop the dog from eating.

ALSO READ: Pet Oral Hygiene & Dental Health Guide

Behavioral Causes

If your dog prefers some food items over others or only eats when hand-fed, his problem may be behavioral, and not medical. Such dogs will often only eat the chicken, or eggs or their favorite food and leave behind all the veggies or rice or anything they don’t like. Often it’s the high-value food versus the low-value food conundrum. Some of these dogs may refuse to eat the high-value foods after some time because they would have found another higher value item. We’ve met pet parents who have 10-15 different brands of dog food in their home now because their dog would quit eating them every 3-4 weeks.
 
Some dogs won’t eat until hand-fed. We’ve come across dogs who would want to be chased for hours before they’d finish their meal and some others who would only eat when someone puts a morsel in their mouth. Otherwise, they’d just pass.
 
Both of these situations are dangerous. One day you’d just run out of options for new food to feed your dog. And your dog will starve to death if you’re not around to feed him. It’s important that your pet eats what he’s fed and eats it on his own. Pampering is necessary and important, but parenting should always win.
 
If it’s a puppy you’re dealing with, sometimes they don’t even know what to do with that food. How many times have you seen him more interested in the bowl than the food that’s in it?! In such situations, you might have to take a morsel and put it in his mouth the first time to get him hooked to the taste. He should start eating on his own thereafter. But do not repeat or continue the hand-feeding for long, else he’ll get used to it.
 

Physiological Causes

If your dog eats very less or eats rarely, it could just mean he has a small appetite. A dog’s daily caloric requirement is based on his size, his activity, and exercise. If your dog does not exert himself much throughout the day, he’ll have a low metabolism rate and he’ll feel less hungry. And if he’s offered treats to motivate him throughout the day, he’ll have enough calories by the end to keep him running without food.
 
This is the reason why we see more small dogs showing fussy behavior than medium or large dogs. Smaller dogs need relatively fewer calories throughout the day and can derive enough energy to sustain stubbornness even from the small morsels of food they taste, or the treats they’ve conned you into.
 

 

Common Myths about Picky Eating Habits in Dogs

1. Dogs get bored with their food after a while and need variety.
   Wrong! Dogs love consistency. Not only their body responds better to a consistent nutritional mix, but they also like the routine of eating the same food over and over again. Like humans, most dogs have preferences. For instance, some may prefer fish over chicken. But dogs can eat their favorite food every day for the rest of their lives, and unlike us humans, don’t crave for variety.
2. Fussy dogs can’t be fixed.
   Wrong! While picky dogs (particularly the behavioral type) demand time and patience to fix, they can certainly be conditioned with time to eat like normal dogs. Fixing stubborn little brats is not easy, but we know it’s for their greater good. If you’re used to eating junk food for a better part of your life, switching to a salad diet may be difficult, but we know it’s the right choice for us. It’s the same for our pets!
3. Changing a dog’s diet frequently prevents him from becoming fussy.
   Wrong! If anything, it aggravates the problem! Not only his body has to bear the consequences of the often changing nutritional mix of the diet, but your dog also gets more options to choose a high-value food item from. While variety may be the spice of life, your dog (and you) may not enjoy it so much after all.

How NOT to Fix Fussy Dogs?

DO NOT Succumb to your Dog’s Alpha Game

We know how it feels when your pooch looks down at his bowl and snubs at you with dismayed eyes. But don’t fall for it, that’s his alpha game. He wants you to feel sorry for him, and guilty for feeding him that dog-forsaken thing for food. He wants you to feed him his favorite treat instead. But hey, those puppy eyes are a trap!
 

DO NOT Bribe your Pet with Treats

Do not incentivize your dog to eat his food by topping it up with treats or hooman-food. The food itself should be an incentive for his good behavior. You both know that he’s only going to meticulously eat the treats off and leave the food behind. If that really worked, Popeye wouldn’t have to go through the troubles to make the kids eat Spinach. He’d just sprinkle some Butter Chicken gravy over it and wham!
 
Bribing him with treats is perceived by the dog as a reward for not eating his food. These treats are often loaded with MSG and other synthetic flavors which only make things worse. Once your dog gets addicted to their taste, it’s extremely difficult for him to switch to anything else.

ALSO READ: The Truth Behind Commercial Pet Foods & Treats

DO NOT Hand-Feed your Dog

You don’t want your kids to be dependent on you forever, do you? Ideally, the dog should be made to earn every meal. Food should come as a reward for being a good dog. That’s how the wild works, you either work to get your food, or you starve and become food for others.
 
In our homes, it’s enough that he’s getting the meal without having to scavenge for it. Feeding it by your hands will not only make the dog heavily dependent on you but may also give birth to a hundred other behavioral issues. We complete support pampering your furry baby, but only once he’s finished his meals on his own. Let your attention be a reward for his good behavior, not a reinforcement to his disobedience.
 

 

How to Fix a Picky Dog – The Correct Way!

The first and the most important thing you need in order to fix your picky dog is Commitment.
 
When you start, there is a chance that your dog may not eat on the first few attempts. He may go hungry for an entire day or even two. There are a ton of things you can try, but they’ll all fall apart if you cave in at the end of the day and feed him his favorite high-value food or top it up with treats to convince him to eat.
 
It’s important to understand that the dog will never let himself starve. He may go on a hunger strike initially, but eventually – he’ll eat whatever is available. While none of us pet parents want to see our pets like this – a dog can easily survive for many days without food (even with moderate daily exercise). The smaller and lazier the dog, the longer your dog could take to start eating. But once he’s really hungry, he’ll come around and eat.
 
While this may sound cruel and inhumane, it’s the right thing to do. We’ll ensure all along that your dog has ample opportunities to eat and doesn’t have to starve, but he’ll have to come the distance. The only difficult part of this exercise will be to convince yourself and the family, that this is for their greater good. It’s also the most difficult part! You will have to be a tough parent and stay firm against his stubbornness. If you stay strong, eventually and gradually your kid will eat!
 
Once you’ve ruled out the medical causes, you can work on addressing the behavioral and physiological causes. Here are the steps involved:

1. Start by breaking out your dog’s daily diet in 4-5 smaller meals, one every 3-4 hours. Also make sure the food is served warm, at least at room temperature. Chilled or frozen foods slow down your dog’s metabolism – making them feel less hungry.
2. Offer each meal in his bowl and leave him alone with the food for exactly 20 minutes. Giving your dog personal space while he’s eating is very important. Sometimes dogs feel threatened, distracted or just shy to eat in front of other people. Even we don’t like the paparazzi beaming into our dinner plates at weddings, do we?
3. When you return after 20 minutes, remove the bowl whether or not your dog has finished his food. If he has eaten only partially, remove whatever is left over. Make sure he doesn’t get any food until the next meal (after 3 hours, or the next morning if this was the last meal of the day).
4. Offer nothing else apart from his food – no treats, no fruits, nothing else edible. Do not give too much attention either. Your dog will start using hunger strikes as a way to get your attention.

Your pet needs to register that this is the only food he’ll get and it will not remain forever if he doesn’t eat it in time. He won’t take long to understand that he has just 20 minutes to finish his meals. Feeding every 3-4 hours will ensure that he doesn’t starve for too long. He’ll have the opportunity to eat every few hours, provided he eats his meals without fuss.
 
Every time he finishes his meal in full, pet him, call him a good boy – do whatever you do to appreciate him. If he doesn’t eat or doesn’t finish in full, don’t react. Don’t rebuke him, don’t scream at him and definitely don’t pamper him or convince (read: beg) him to eat. Just don’t give him any attention if he doesn’t eat in time (Yes, your dog can read your facial expressions and emotions.) He will soon realize that the best and only way to get your attention is to finish his meal in full. Love > Obstinacy, after all.
 
Consequently, you should also increase your dog’s daily exercise. Take him out for long walks at least twice a day, engage in physical games and make your puppy spend his energy. Something as simple as climbing a flight of stairs up and down a few times a day is a great exercise for smaller dogs. For medium to larger sized dogs, take them out to the terrace or the park across your street.
 

 
When dogs go on hunger strikes, they try to conserve energy as much as possible. When pets don’t eat, we often see them sitting quietly in a corner, not jumping around, not being their usual self. Not to mention, the looks they’d give you all the time – like you’re the cruelest thing ever! But don’t fall for it. Not only they’re exploiting your guilt, but they’re also shutting down their metabolism to survive the strike for longer. The quickest way to break their fast is to exercise your pet. The more your dog exerts himself, the hungrier he feels, and the sooner he’ll start eating.
 
Sometimes, putting your dog in the company of another similar sized dog who is not a picky eater also works. Dogs will eat their food immediately (even low-value food) if they see it under a threat from another dog. However, try this only when you understand both the dogs and the chemistry between them, lest you might find yourself in the middle of a dogfight.
 

What’s the Best Food to Feed a Picky Dog?

It’s a common misconception that dogs do not have a sense of taste. It’s true that dogs have only 1/6th the number of taste buds as that of a human, but most of what we taste is actually taste and smell combined. And since dogs have one the best sense of smell in the animal kingdom, our estimate is that dogs can taste stuff very well. Based on their taste-bud pattern, there are 6 main tastes that a dog identifies: Sweet, savory, sour, bitter, the taste of meat (favorite!) and one other (a taste that’s still unknown to man).
 
However, it’s recommended that you pick a food that’s closest to their ancestral diet and is predominantly meat based. Dogs need a diet that’s rich in animal proteins and fats. The fat makes the food more palatable and acceptable for dogs and helps their skin and coat too.

ALSO READ: How to Pick the Right Food for Your Pet

Since you’re conditioning them to eat only one kind of food over time, it’s important that the food delivers all important nutrients including vitamins and minerals necessary for correct growth at his life stage. When he begins to eat without a fuss, he’s trusting you with his food. Make sure you choose his food carefully. Steer clear of packaged pet foods that are mostly loaded with questionable ingredients and synthetic additives. Like all responsible parents, go natural. Feed real. DawgieBowl offers delicious, healthy meal plans for all life stages of your pet dog.

A wet snout, big gazing eyes, and a frantically wagging tail – something that all pet parents live for. We love our pets, often more than anything or anyone else in the world. Our whole world revolves around our furry friends. We obviously work very hard so our dogs and cats could have a comfortable life. And we take every possible measure to ensure no harm comes to them, ever. We give them a loving home, a comfortable bed, and the best of food to feed on (or at least we think so!)
 
We buy the most popular brand of pet food for them. It’s advertised heavily and everybody we know seems to recommend it, so it must be good, right? Wrong! Most commercial pet foods and their reality are far from ideal. And yet we pet parents seem to trust them for our baby’s nutrition – a catastrophic mistake.

Let’s try to understand how commercial pet foods are made and what makes them a poor choice for our darling dog or cat.
 

Reasons Why We Rely on Packaged Pet Food

1. Balanced Nutrition for the Dog or Cat – We want to give our pets, the best nutrition that we can. We want them to eat healthily, and we think a bag of kibble is the right way to go! At least, that’s what is advertised to us.
2. It’s Convenient – Pet foods are convenient, they’re time-saving and who doesn’t want to save time in this fast-paced generation. Of course, we would love to cook for our sweethearts, if only the boss wouldn’t call the morning meetings that early. Commercial pet foods are quick & easy for us, simple!
3. Our Pets Loves It – Our pets seem to enjoy the dry kibbles or the hideous gravy that comes out of those packets. They always come back begging for more.
4. The Vet, Trainer or Pet Store Recommended It – My vet or dog’s trainer swears by this brand of pet food. Even the guy at the pet store strongly recommended it. Then it must be good, no?!

History & Development of Pet Nutrition

Before domestication, the ancestors of our dogs and cats would prey on smaller animals, or scavenge on the waste from the human settlements. After adopting them for work and companionship, people began to care at least in part for their nutritional needs. Our pets evolved, and so did the need for specialized nutrition. Mostly, because the diets had to now accommodate their special needs based on breed or vocation.
 
The changing approach towards Pet Nutrition dates back at least 3,000 years. There are numerous mentions in ancient literature that talk about what our pets must feed on. Although, the common households continued to share their food with their pets until the late 1800s. The dogs and cats were part of the family and fed on whatever the owners could spare for them.
 
In 1860, an English businessman James Spratt created the first ever ‘dog biscuit’ using beef blood, wheat flour, and vegetables. Consequently, Spratt’s Patent Limited became the first commercial dog food manufacturer. The first canned dog food, “Ken-L Ration” was introduced in 1922. Its main ingredient was horse-meat, sourced from the deceased horses in World War I. A growing middle-class and upcoming kennel clubs resulted in massive success for pet food companies.
 

 
By the end of WWII, pet food sales had skyrocketed. Food giants such as Quaker Oats & General Foods had started entering the market. Commercial pet foods became one of the most profitable ways to dispose of by-products of the meat and leather industry.
 
The packaged pet food industry will be worth $98Bn worldwide by 2022, dominated by global FMCG giants like Mars, P&G, Nestle, among others.
 

The Modern Pet Food Manufacturer

Meet Bob, he’s a modern-day pet food manufacturer. While Bob’s friends think he plays with puppies and money all day, real life is a little different for him. Like any other businessman, Bob has to face many challenges at work every day.
 

The Current Challenges of the Pet Food Industry

Some of Bob’s obvious challenges include:

1. Growing Competition – With new players entering the market each day, life is difficult for Bob. It’s a constant struggle to ensure that his product survives the ever-growing competition.
2. Increasing Costs – Everything is getting expensive – raw material, packaging, workforce, and even advertising. Everything except Pet Foods. While the manufacturing costs are increasing, Bob cannot increase the prices of his products. He has to cater to price-sensitive customers in a competitive market.
3. Huge Distribution & Sales Overheads – Bob has to ensure every pet-shop stocks his products and even recommends them to his customers. Even the vets and trainers don’t endorse for free. Bob has to share a big chunk of his revenues to make it happen. Not to mention, increasing competition also increases these costs.
4. Wastage, Spoilage & Pilferage Costs – Food products are sensitive. Sun, rain, rodents or even time can result in a big loss. Bob has to account for these too.

The Ugly Truth of Pet Foods

To tackle these challenges, Bob does what all businessmen in his position would do. He decides to go aggressive on sales. He promises bigger commissions to pet-shops and professionals endorsing his products. He also packages his food in fancier, shinier bags and uses aggressive advertising to lure more customers.
 
He also plans to reduce the cost of manufacturing and losses due to spoilage. This is achieved by cutting corners and employing the use of:

1. By-products – Instead of fresh meats, Bob uses by-products like offals, hides, bones, hooves, beaks, nails, feathers, and even hair of animals – anything that the meat and leather industry throws out – for his pet food. He also considers using dead animals – those that die of diseases or during transport to slaughterhouses. These come cheaper than meat and still provide nutrition on paper. He cleverly calls them something like “chicken meal” or “meat derivative” so the customers wouldn’t notice that the meat has been replaced with a cheap substitute.
2. Food Fillers – Bob sells his food by weight, so it’s in his interest that the pet eats more. But he doesn’t want to make it too expensive for the customer either. So he decides to use food fillers to add bulk to the food. He resorts to cornmeal, grain husks, sugarcane fiber, peanut shells, and other byproducts of the food processing industry as a filler for his product.
3. Flavors & Colors – Bob wants to make his product visually-appealing for his customers. So he adds colors to his product. Red pellets for meat, green pellets for veggies, and so on. He must also ensure that his product is palatable and that pets like his food. Rendered fats, synthetic flavors and even taste enhancers such as sugar and MSG are added to the food. These get pets addicted to the food, so much that they’ll refuse to eat anything else if the customer decides to switch the brand.
4. Preservatives & Stabilizers – Bob has to ensure that the meat byproducts (some of which are partly decomposed already) and fats added to the food are shelf-stable. He wants his product to be able to survive hot and cold temperatures, moisture and time. This is achieved by adding preservatives to the food. A mix of synthetic and natural chemicals are used to reduce oxidation and biological activity within the bag. This ensures longer shelf life and maximizes cost. He can now transport his food to longer distances and ask retailers to stock more food, for longer.

The Research, Regulations, and Reality of Commercial Pet Food Industry

You must have noted that not once did Bob talk about product innovation or even the health impacts of the pets that eat his food. As sad as it sounds, there hasn’t been much innovation or development in the field of pet nutrition in recent years. It’s important to understand that any research requires funding. And the only folks funding research around pet nutrition and pet foods are the pet food companies. Now Bob wouldn’t want to fund any study that may hurt his revenues. Would he?
 
There are also little to no regulations on the manufacture and sale of pet foods. Organizations like AAFCO and FEDIAF do have guidelines for pet food manufacturers, but they’re more or less toothless. In countries like India, there are absolutely no regulations on what’s sold in the name of food for dogs & cats. And even if there are, defaults attract virtually no penalties. Which means Bob can make and sell anything to our pets, and there’s nothing we can do about it.

Sadly, Bob is not the only one. Most commercial pet food manufacturers, distributors and even the professionals recommending such food have no empathy towards our pets. They continue to flood the markets with nutritionally-dead products under the aegis of global brands. Processed pet foods are known to contain toxins such as aflatoxins, heterocyclic amines, acrylamides, and even PBDEs (polybrominated diphenyl ethers) in some cases. There are numerous reported cases of dogs and cats falling sick due to consumption of adulterated and otherwise poor quality pet foods.
 
Every year, the FDA issues close to 30-35 pet food recalls in the US alone. These recalls are issued for reasons like a nutritional mismatch, toxic contamination or adulteration. The UK and other European countries too issue several recalls due to poor quality and safety issues. In 2016, a major canned pet food brand was recalled for the presence of euthanasia drug. This should tell something about the risks involved with commercial pet foods.
 

How Kibble & Processed Food Affect our Pets

Chronic degenerative diseases, auto-immune diseases, allergies, kidney, pancreatic and liver disease are all rampant within pets feeding on commercial pet foods. Many independent reports have linked processed pet foods to cancer. Pets who do not develop any acute symptoms of poisoning from pet foods, still exhibit early aging and untimely deaths.
 
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) are phenolic compounds often added to pet foods to preserve fats from turning rancid. BHT is also advertised as a dietary supplement for use as an antioxidant. Both are classified as carcinogens (cancer-causing substances). Ethoxyquin, another common preservative is shown to have similar properties to Agent Orange, a poison used during the Vietnam War.
 

 
Red 40, a dye commonly used to color the kibble red is known to cause lead poisoning. Yellow 6, the dye is found to cause adrenal gland and kidney tumors and contains small amounts of many carcinogens. Blue 1 and Blue 2 are known to cause brain tumors.
 
Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) is used in many pet foods as a flavor enhancer. It’s usually disguised as “Brewer’s Yeast” or “Natural Flavoring” on the labels. MSG has been linked with sudden cardiac deaths and excitotoxic damages. Excitotoxins such as MSG can cause sensitive neurons to die. Cocaine-like addictive effects of MSG have also been recorded.
 
A study conducted by Dr. Gerard Lippert and Dr. Bruno Sapy on over 500 domestic dogs in Belgium revealed that pets who fed a processed diet (kibble or wet pet food) had a shorter life expectancy. These pets died up to 32 months sooner than pets who fed on a balanced homemade or healthy commercial diet.

If all pet foods are bad, what do we feed our pets?

Not all pet foods are equal. While there are many like Bob, there are others that truly care about what goes into their product, and its impact on the pets that eat it. But as responsible pet parents, the onus lies on you to conduct due diligence while choosing your baby’s diet.
 
While selecting pet food for your furry baby, consider the following things:

1. Real Food is the Best – Food must look, smell and taste like food. Most kibbles and canned pet foods are far from appetizing. However, years of advertising has made us believe that they’re better than fresh meats, eggs, vegetables, and fruits. If you can prepare a balanced diet from fresh ingredients at home, there’s truly nothing better than that. If not, look for an option that doesn’t feed by-products, cheap fillers and toxic chemicals to your dog or cat.
2. Read the Labels Carefully – While selecting a pet food, read the nutrition labels clearly. Although pet foods are not mandated by Indian law to list the ingredient and nutrition data on the pack. But those that truly care (or have to comply with import/export laws) usually have a label. Before buying a product, look for its ingredient list and check for suspicious items. If something doesn’t sound like food, ask the pet shop owner or simply Google!
3. Do Your Research – Before you finalize the pet food for your darling, check its reviews. Also check for recent recall notices issued on the brand. If you’re still not confident about your choice, call up the food manufacturer’s helpline and clarify your doubts. Leave no stone unturned to ensure that your dog or cat gets a healthy and nutritious diet.
4. Consult the Professionals (with Reasoning) – When your trainer or groomer recommends a pet food, ask them (politely) why they think it’s the right choice for your pet. If a vet recommends a food for your dog or cat, find out what distinguishes the product from the rest. Your vet should be able to address concerns on the quality of ingredients used, nutrient balance and the food’s clinical results.
5. Don’t Go for the Cheapest Product – While there is no guarantee that an expensive product delivers superior quality and nutrition, the cheaper ones are usually worse. If a product is available for, say 100 rupees a kilo, think about how much they would have actually invested in the food. Remember, even the cheaper products have to spend on distribution, sales & advertising.
6. Measure Results Periodically – Your responsibility as a pet parent doesn’t end at selecting the pet food. Every pet is different and may respond differently and unexpectedly to a food product. Every few months, while your pet is on the diet, conduct routine checks with a vet. Simple bloodwork and stool sample can tell you volumes on how your pet’s body is performing. It can also help you identify any diseases or deficiencies early on and facilitate a correct and accurate prognosis.

Your pet and his health are precious. Do not compromise on them by blindly opting for ‘the popular option’. Evaluate all available options carefully, and make a calculated buying decision. It’s for your baby’s safety and health, after all. We wish you happy pet parenting, and your pet a long and healthy life!

Food, Exercise, and Love – the 3 pillars of responsible and successful pet parenting. Just like our human kids, our furry babies need unconditional love, safe shelter, and healthy and nutritious food to grow into the superheroes that they are. The proverb “You become what you eat” applies to our pets as much as it does to the rest of our family. Which is what makes it extremely important for us to understand our dogs & cats, and their dietary requirements. Choosing our pet’s food requires utmost care and deliberation. It’s a decision that will impact their whole life, for good or for the worse.

Food can change our pets in more ways than we can imagine. Dogs and cats that eat a balanced and biologically-appropriate diet often live longer, are more active, agile and energetic. They have a shinier coat and skin, and healthier teeth and gums. Such pets are seldom obese and fall sick less often (= lower medical bills!). Pets who feed on the right diet also show less behavioral issues or diseases.
 
On the other hand, pets who ought to survive on a processed or otherwise unbalanced diet, often run into issues. Lethargy, obesity, digestive disorders, poop issues (stinky, runny or constipated), fussy eating or food-related behavioral issues, bone/joints or skin issues, weakened immunity, diseases or deficiencies are all indications of a poor diet. If your pet has been down with one or more of these lately, it’s time to rethink what you’ve been feeding them.
 

 

What should my Pet’s Ideal Diet contain?

All animals (including our dogs, cats, and humans) need a balance of macronutrients such as Proteins, Fats, and Carbohydrates (sugars & fiber), micronutrients such as vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and antioxidants for growth and sustenance, and water. The balance of nutrients, however, in our pets’ and our food is not the same. In fact, some common human food items may be extremely toxic for our dogs & cats.
 
A dog or cat’s diet must be inspired from what their ancestors, the wolves, and wildcats ate in the wild. These animals would mostly prey on smaller animals, scavenge on leftovers from a big hunt or fruits and berries dropped from the trees. This gave them a very specific set of nutrients, and they gradually evolved to make the best of what they fed on. Thus, when we plan a diet for our fur babies today, it must mirror the same biological mix of nutrients. Let’s have a look at the various nutrients that must constitute our pet’s food:
 

Macronutrients in Pet Food

Proteins: Proteins are the building blocks of life. They are the most abundant organic molecule, constituting about 50% of a cell’s dry weight. The word protein comes from the Greek word Proteios, which means “of primary importance” or “first place”. Thus, protein should be the first ingredient on your pet food label and must also form the bulk of your pet’s diet.
 
Proteins are made up of Amino Acids. There are 22 amino acids that build up all proteins. Typically, an animal’s body can produce some of these amino acids naturally. However, the rest must be supplied through their food. These are known as the essential amino acids. Dogs need 10 essential amino acids in their diet, cats need 11. Humans need only 9. Arginine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Tryptophan and Valine are the essential amino acids for dogs. Additionally, cats need Taurine apart from these.
 
Proteins play several important roles in the dog or cat’s body. They include:

• Growth and maintenance of body tissues such as bones, muscles, blood, skin, and hair;
• Providing structure, strength, and elasticity to cells;
• Synthesis of important enzymes, hormones, antibodies, etc., hence, vital for several body functions;
• Maintaining a steady pH and regulate fluids in the body;
• Providing energy to your pet throughout the day.

 
Fats: Our first natural reaction to fats is… unhealthy! But fats are actually very important for our body, more so for our pets. The ancestral diet of our pets included whole prey animals, with their skin and offals (both rich in fats). Thus, fats constitute a big chunk of their diet – only second to proteins.
 
Fats are made up of building blocks called Fatty Acids. There are some fatty acids that animals cannot produce in their body, and must be delivered through food. These are called essential fatty acids (EFA). These are divided into two groups – Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Dogs need Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA), Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA) and Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA) from the ω-3 group and Linoleic Acid (LA) and Arachidonic Acid (AA) from the ω-6 group. Omega-3 acids are not essential for cats but recommended for their anti-inflammatory effect.
 
Fats perform several important functions in the pet’s body, including:

• Absorption of fat-soluble vitamins in the body;
• Nourishing the skin and coat, and formation of cell membranes;
• Supporting brain function and nerve activity;
• Providing insulation to the body and internal organs and keeping them warm.
• Their anti-inflammatory effect keeps the risk of cancer at bay;
• Increasing palatability and adding texture to the food.
• Rich source of energy, with twice the amount of calories than protein or carbs.

However, it’s important to remember that fats have a very short shelf life. They start oxidizing as soon as they come in contact with the air and soon turn rancid. Rancid fats, such as those in packaged kibble bags, can cause gastric upset, vomiting, and diarrhea in the short term. And may result in liver diseases or pancreatitis over long use.
 
Carbohydrates: The common belief is that dogs and cats need zero carbs. However, that’s not entirely true. While they’re still carnivores, dogs and cats need carbohydrates in moderate quantities to maintain a healthy lifecycle. Carbohydrates may exist as sugars (simple carbs), starch (complex carbs) or cellulose (dietary fiber).
 
Simple carbs or processed complex carbs (such as flour) tend to increase blood sugar levels quickly. These carbohydrates are said to have a high glycemic index. Wholefoods and items rich in insoluble fiber are said to be low on the glycemic scale. Low-GI carbohydrates are acceptable and in fact, healthy for our dogs and cats. While those high on the GI scale must be avoided.
 
Carbohydrates perform the following functions in our pet’s diet:

• They act as a source of quick energy.
• Dietary fiber keeps the pet feeling full for a longer time, enables better digestion and bowel movements.

Micronutrients in Pet Food

Vitamins: Just like humans, our pets also need a variety of vitamins to keep their body operating smoothly. Vitamins are organic compounds that take part in a wide range of metabolic activities. They may be either Water-Soluble Vitamins or Fat-Soluble Vitamins. Dogs and cats need B-vitamins along with Vitamin A, D, E, K, and Choline in different proportions.
 
Vitamins A helps with the skin and eyes. Vitamin D helps with absorption of Calcium and Phosphorus in the body. Vit E helps with skin & coat and strengthens the immune system. Vit K allows proper blood coagulation. B-vitamins help in a number of biochemical reactions and are important for healthy skin, coat and digestion. Choline aids healthy brain and liver function.

Pets can synthesize Vitamin C in their liver, and don’t really need it. Supplementing it may be beneficial, but an excess can create toxicity. Hence, caution is advised.

Minerals: All dogs and cats need some essential Macrominerals (in relatively larger quantities) and Trace Minerals (in minute quantities) in their diet. The 7 macrominerals needed by dogs and cats are Calcium, Phosphorus, Magnesium, Sodium, Chloride, Potassium and Sulphur. There are about 11 microminerals, but the most important ones are Iron, Zinc, Copper, Chromium, Iodine, Selenium, Manganese and Fluorine.
 
Calcium and phosphorus are needed for bones and teeth. Calcium is also needed for many other important functions such as blood pressure control, nerve impulse transmission, muscle contraction, hormone secretion, and blood coagulation. Sodium, potassium, and chloride maintain the pH in the body, thereby, regulating the fluid balance in the body. Magnesium is important for bones, enzymes & intracellular fluids, and brain functions. Iron makes up the oxygen-carrying pigments – hemoglobin and myoglobin. Zinc is important for the immune system, growth, and reproduction. Zinc and Selenium are important for healthy skin and coat.
 
Enzymes, Antioxidants & Probiotics: Enzymes are a specialized class of proteins that help catalyze biochemical reactions in the body.  Enzymes support the immune system, help in absorption of vitamins and minerals, promote healthy teeth, gums, bones, and joints, and keep toxins out. Digestive enzymes such as proteases break down proteins into simpler amino acids. Lipases break down fats into fatty acids and glycerol. While most enzymes are secreted in the body itself, adding additional enzymes such as Papain may provide support to the body.
 
Antioxidants are compounds that prevent oxidation and thus spoilage of nutrients in food. They may also help prevent cell damage due to aging. Antioxidants also help in nerve functions. Some vitamins such as Vit E and A act as a good antioxidant and may reduce the risk of cancer.
 
Probiotics are healthy bacteria cultures that promote digestion in the body. These are usually found in the gut of the animals, but may need replenishment through food. Especially if the pet has had poor metabolism or diet.
 

Water in Pets’ Diet

Water is the most important yet most underrated part of your pet’s diet. Water is the main component of every healthy living cell in the body. Our bodies (and those of our pets) are made up of roughly 70% water. A diet is incomplete if it doesn’t provide sufficient moisture to your pet. More so, if your dog or cat doesn’t drink water regularly.
 
The main function of water is to transport nutrients into and out of the body. Water acts as a solvent for many important nutrients and greatly helps in digestion. It cools down the body and helps maintain normal body temperature. Water lubricates the joints and keeps the organs hydrated and operational. It also helps to remove toxins from the body.
 
Lack of water in your pet’s diet may result in dehydration and organ malfunction. This could be fatal for your darling. That is why it’s strongly recommended to include fresh fruits, vegetables and other fresh produce in your pet’s diet. Keeping the fluids up is one of the thumb rules of Pet Nutrition.
 

 

Important Considerations while Planning Diets for Pets or Picking Pet Foods

Moderation is Key – More is Not Always Merrier

Your pet’s diet must consist of all nutrients in a balanced amount. While we may tempt to supplement our pet’s diet with more of the good stuff, sometimes it may not be necessary. In fact, an excess of certain nutrients may cause toxicity or other issues. For example, too much Vitamin A (liver treats) intake for a prolonged duration may result in poor absorption and deficiency of calcium, resulting in weaker bones and joints. High sodium can lead to blood pressure, heart and kidney diseases. Too much fat could lead to liver and pancreatic issues while excessive calcium can lead to kidney or bladder stones.
 
Organizations such as the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) and the European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF) lay down the metrics for Recommended Daily Intake (RDI) for pets. They establish Nutrient Profiles that all pet foods must comply to in order to label their products as “complete and balanced”. These nutrient profiles also specify the maximum dosage of nutrients in pet foods.
 
Here’s the AAFCO Nutrient Profile for Dogs & Cats, that DawgieBowl complies with:

 
Consequently, stay clear of multivitamins and mineral supplements for your pets, unless prescribed by your vet. Food supplements must only be added when the diet being fed to your pet is nutritionally incorrect or incomplete. Multivitamins or mineral supplements meant for human consumption is a big NO for pets.
 

Lifestage and Lifestyle-based Diets

Your pet’s diet must match their life-stage and their lifestyle. Puppies/Kittens and senior dogs or cats have a different nutritional requirement than adults. Similarly, pregnant or lactating pets may have different needs too.
 
Working animals, or pets with an active lifestyle may need a different diet than live-at-home pets or those that don’t work out as often. Athletes don’t eat the same food as desk workers, do they?
 
Animals may also need slightly different nutrients based on their breeds. Some breeds may have a known genetic predisposition to certain diseases or deficiencies. This is where it gets important to customize their food as per their breed-specific needs.
 

Go Easy on Calories

While a healthy balance of macronutrients is required, you must watch the calorie intake and consumption of your pet. Proteins and carbs typically give out 4 calories per gram, while fats provide 9 calories per gram. Your pet’s food must be moderately nutrient-dense – enough to provide all nutrients as per their RDI without overloading or starving them of calories.
 
The energy required by the pet to perform essential body functions like digestion, respiration, heart functions, brain functions, etc. is known as the Resting Energy Requirement (RER). This is the energy required by a living creature to maintain homeostasis while performing no physical exercise without losing weight. The RER of dogs and cats is calculated using the formula RER = 70 x (body weight in kgs) 0.75.
 
Maintenance Energy Requirement (MER) is the energy requirement for a moderately active pet in a thermoneutral environment. MER is the amount of energy needed to maintain steady body weight even with moderate physical exercise. It’s usually calculated as a multiple of the RER as given in the tables below:

Source Matters

Food is not just a numbers game. The quality of nutrient makes a huge impact on how much of those nutrients will be absorbed and assimilated by your pet’s body. For example, not all proteins are the same. Protein Digestibility-Corrected Amino Acid Score (PDCAAS) is a scale used to evaluate the quality of a protein based on the availability of amino acids and their absorbability in the body. Other factors such as Net Protein Utilization (NPU) also affects the digestibility of a protein. Commercial pet foods often get the nutrients right on paper. But they often use low-quality ingredients that rank low on the PDCAAS & NPU scale. This makes only a fraction of the advertised nutrients available for use by your pet’s body.
 
When selecting a diet for your darling dog or cat, make sure the nutrients are sourced from natural ingredients. While synthetic reconstitutes may fulfill the compliance requirements, they will certainly not fulfill your pet’s dietary needs. Packaged, overprocessed diets often provide little or no nutritional benefits to your pet. Of course, your dog or cat can survive on them. But they need real, natural food from fresh sources to thrive on. Some lifeless pellets out of a bag would just not do!
 

Results are Slow, But Don’t Miss Them!

The biggest problem with planning diets for pets is that the effects manifest over a long time. And they may be so subtle, that’s we may entirely miss them. When you put your pet on a new diet regime, some of the acute results may show up almost immediately (within a week), but the long term effects are only visible after many months or sometimes, even years.
 
This stands true for both, the positive and adverse effects. Nutrient deficiencies often take years before they manifest into a symptom that can be diagnosed. And often times, with our pet’s short lifespan – it’s too late for redemption. Sometimes, we accept these adverse effects as age-attributed problems. For example, kidney or heart issues are often attributed to old age – while they may just be a side-effect of poor dietary habits during the early years.
 
This is what calls for a lot of planning and research while selecting a pet food for your furry baby. Your choice has a direct impact on your dog or cat’s life. Therefore, a lot of due diligence and deliberation is required while planning your pet’s diet. As educated consumers and responsible pet parents, you must not fall for clever advertisements and evaluate every product on its merits – especially when it concerns your pet’s health, safety, and well-being.
 

 

Abandon the ‘My Pet Loves It!’ Theory

Kids love fast food – that doesn’t make it appropriate for them. Similarly, just because your pet loves a certain kind of food – doesn’t mean it’s healthy and safe for them. As pet parents, it’s up to you to decide what’s best for your furry baby. Their judgment may not always be in their best interest.
 
Commercial pet food products are known to use dangerous amounts of added taste enhancers such as Monosodium Glutamate (MSG – often disguised as “Brewer’s Yeast” or “Natural Flavoring Substances” on pet food labels) and even sugar. Of course, this would get the pets hooked on the food, but it’s absolutely detrimental – almost toxic for them.
 

Read Labels Carefully

When making a choice of pet food products for your dog or cat, make sure you read the labels carefully. Although the regulations for pet food labeling are very vague in India, you’ll be able to tell the good from the bad – if you know where to look. Go over the ingredients list on the pet food label, and see if they sound like something your baby should eat. If you’re not sure, you can always look them up on Google.
 
Be wary of items that sound like food – but are not. For example, chicken meal is not the same as chicken meat. Beet pulp is not the purple juicy root vegetable you’re thinking of. Cellulose powder is basically, sawdust. Be careful of the prefixes and suffixes on items. “-Meals”, “-solids”, “-extracts” are clever ways of hiding the processed ingredients under an organic-sounding name.

When it’s about your babies’ health, no measure is too drastic – ever! If you’re not sure about something, always ask for help. Consult a vet or pet nutritionist to know what’s best for your pet. Always feed real, nutritious, healthy and balanced food to your pet. Your dog or cat will thank you, we promise! Exercise your darling pet regularly, love them, and spoil them all you want! They deserve all of it!

“My dog has perfect oral hygiene. He brushes his teeth daily. I love him so much. We both even share the same toothpaste.”
 
While it may seem like an absolutely harmless, rather adorable habit, toothpaste meant for humans could prove fatal for your pet. Maintaining your pooch’s oral hygiene is great. But NEVER use the same toothpaste as yours.

Toothpastes contain a substance called Xylitol. It’s what gives the sweet taste to your toothpaste. While it’s completely safe and arguably healthy for hoomans, it’s absolutely toxic for dogs. Xylitol is almost 100 times more toxic than chocolate for dogs. Xylitol toxicity can occur at a dosage of 100 mg per kg of body weight. A typical toothpaste may contain 5 – 35% xylitol by volume. Hence, a standard 100 gm toothpaste tube is enough to make your dog very sick.
 

What is Xylitol and why is it in my Toothpaste?

Xylitol is a naturally occurring substance that is widely used as a sugar substitute. Chemically, it is a sugar alcohol that is naturally found in berries, plums, corn, oats, mushrooms, lettuce, trees, and some other hardwood trees and fruits. Commercially, most xylitol is extracted from corn fiber, birch trees, hardwood trees, and other vegetable material. Although it has been used as a sugar substitute for decades, its popularity has increased dramatically in the last few years.
 
Xylitol is about as sweet as sucrose but contains only about two-thirds of the calories. As a sugar substitute, it is lower on the glycemic index, a scale that ranks carbohydrate-rich foods by how much they raise blood sugar levels compared to glucose. Being lower on the glycemic index makes xylitol useful for diabetics or people on low carbohydrate diets. Almost all commercial “Sugar-free” products are sweetened using xylitol.
 
With respect to oral health, research has shown that xylitol helps reduce the formation of plaque, inhibits dental cavities, and stimulates the production of saliva in humans.
 

 

Why is Xylitol Toxic for Dogs?

In both hoomans and dawgies, the level of blood sugar is controlled by the release of insulin from the pancreas. Xylitol does not stimulate the release of insulin from the pancreas in humans. However, when non-primate species (e.g. a dog) eat something containing xylitol, the xylitol is quickly absorbed into the bloodstream, resulting in a potent release of insulin from the pancreas. This rapid release of insulin results in a rapid and profound decrease in the level of blood sugar (hypoglycemia), an effect that occurs within 10-60 minutes of consuming xylitol. If left untreated, hypoglycemia can be life-threatening.
 

How to detect Xylitol Poisoning in Dogs?

Symptoms of xylitol toxicity develop rapidly, usually within 15-30 minutes of consumption. Signs of hypoglycemia may include any or all of the following:

• Vomiting
• Weakness
• Incoordination or difficulty walking or standing (walking like drunk)
• Depression or lethargy
• Tremors
• Seizures
• Coma

In severe cases, the dog may develop seizures or liver failure, which can lead to almost instant death.
 

What should I do if my dog has eaten something with Xylitol?

Quick and aggressive treatment of xylitol poisoning is essential to effectively reverse any toxic effects and prevent the development of severe problems. If you have a case of xylitol poisoning, contact an emergency veterinarian immediately. The sooner you act, the better chances you stand to save your pooch.
 
If your dog has just consumed xylitol, try and induce vomiting to prevent any further absorption in the bloodstream. If the symptoms of poisoning have started to surface, the treatment will depend on the symptoms being shown and your dog’s glucose levels. Since xylitol toxicity can cause both low blood glucose and low potassium levels, your vet will perform blood tests to determine whether these problems need to be treated. In all cases, your dog will require hospitalization for blood sugar monitoring, dextrose administration, intravenous fluids, liver protectants, and any other supportive care that may be needed. Blood work should be monitored frequently to make sure that blood sugar and liver function remain normal.
 

 

If not for this, how do I ensure my dog’s oral hygiene?

Pets who eat a biologically-appropriate and balanced diet and drink enough water don’t develop dental issues as often. That said, maintaining your pet’s oral hygiene is very important – you just need to use the right procedure and products for it.

SEE ALSO: Pet Dental Health Guide

Consult your veterinary expert for a dawgie-friendly toothpaste brand or YouTube recipes for DIY dawgie-toothpaste.
 

What other products contain Xylitol?

Beside toothpastes, xylitol is widely used in mouthwashes, gums, candies, breath mints, baked goods, cough syrups, children’s chewable vitamins, etc. Basically, anything that reads ‘sugar-free’, ‘low-calorie’, ‘diabetic-friendly’, etc should be avoided for your dog and should be kept out of their reach.

Packaged foods with chemical-based preservatives and additives are one of the biggest causes of oral health issues in pets. Make sure your pet feeds on a biologically-appropriate, balanced and ‘real’ diet. Read more about delicious, healthy meals for dogs and cats from DawgieBowl.

Incidents of brutality and cruelty towards animals and those tending them are not rare. Many cases have come to light, such as Bhadra, the dog who was thrown off a five-story building by two medical students in Chennai in 2016. Or more recently, the street dog who was gang-raped by four men in Mumbai in November 2018, and many more. Sadly, these are not lone incidents; they’re not even recent developments.
 
While social media has made them more accessible now, cases of animosity and violence towards animals are not new in our country, unfortunately. If you parent a pet or take care of strays in your area, you’ve been subjected to some kind of hostility or the other. From neighbors, RWAs, local municipal bodies or random vandals, animals & animal lovers face atrocities every now and then. Some more hostile than the others.
 
Every time an incident occurs, we wish we had stronger laws to protect the voiceless and those that look after them. Interestingly enough, there are several laws and provisions built in our Constitution to protect the animals and their caretakers. But many people are not aware of them, and often fail to seek legal remedy under them.

We’ve compiled a list of all such legal remedies that are provided in Indian Law to protect our beloved pets and strays, and those that protect them. We’d like to thank Advo. Astha Sharma & the Animal Welfare Board of India for helping us compile these. Astha is the Advocate on Record in the Supreme Court of India. She’s actively involved in pro bono cases related to animal rights, including the one against the culling of stray dogs in UP’s Sitapur district.
 
The Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act (59 of 1960) was enacted by the Parliament of India in 1960 to prevent the infliction of unnecessary pain or suffering on animals. This act laid down the laws relating to the prevention of cruelty to animals, except those used for food or scientific experiments. It also provisioned for the formation of a statutory advisory body on Animal Welfare Laws and to promote animal welfare in the country. Thus, the Animal Welfare Board of India was established in 1962 under Section 4 of this act.
 
India has a grade of C out of possible grades A,B,C,D,E,F,G on World Animal Protection’s Animal Protection Index. The UK, Switzerland, Austria and New Zealand are the only countries in the world with grade A.
 

 

Cognizable vs Non-cognizable Offences

Section 2(c) of the Code of Criminal Procedure, 1973 defines Cognizable offences as offences wherein a Police Officer is empowered to arrest the accused or offender without a warrant, such as murder, robbery, theft, rioting, etc.
 
Non-cognizable offences are defined under Section 2(l) of the Code of Criminal Procedure, 1973. In such offences, the Police are not empowered to arrest the accused or offender without a warrant. In cases of public nuisance, assault, causing simple hurt, or any other non-cognizable offence, the Police must obtain a warrant from the Magistrate before making an arrest.
 

Cruelty Towards Animals

Section 11(1) of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1960 chiefly defines what constitute as cruelty to animals. The following table lists out all possible forms of cruelty towards domestic animals (including stray dogs):

Offence or Act of Cruelty	Sections Violated	Nature of Offence
Beating, kicking, over-riding, over-driving, over-loading, torturing, causing unnecessary pain or suffering to any animal	Section 11(1)(a), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Employing any animal that's unfit to work due to age (too young or too old), disease or injury	Section 11(1)(b), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Wilfully and unreasonably administering injurious drug or substance to an animal; poisoning an animal	Section 11(1)(c), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Conveying or carrying an animal in a manner that causes unnecessary pain or suffering	Section 11(1)(d), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Keeping or confining an animal in a cage or container that's too small to allow reasonable movement	Section 11(1)(e), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Keeping an animal chained or leashed for a long time, or with an unreasonably heavy chain or rope	Section 11(1)(f), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Neglects to provide sufficient exercise to a pet animal	Section 11(1)(g), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Failure to provide sufficient food, water or shelter to a pet animal	Section 11(1)(h), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Abandoning a pet animal to suffer starvation and thirst	Section 11(1)(i), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Wilfully letting out an animal with a contagious or infectious disease to suffer and die on the streets, causing danger to public health & safety	Section 11(1)(j), PCAA 1960 Section 270, IPC	Cognizable, Bailable
Sale or possession (without a reasonable cause) of an animal that's suffering pain due to mutilation, starvation, thirst, overcrowding or other ill-treatment	Section 11(1)(k), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Mutilating or killing any animal (including stray dogs)	Section 11(1)(l), PCAA 1960 Section 428, IPC Section 429, IPC (applicable only for pets)	Cognizable, Bailable
Using animals as baits	Section 11(1)(m), PCAA 1960	Non-Cognizable
Organizing, participating, or managing animal fights; allowing admission to such events for money; keeping or using animals for the purpose of fighting	Section 11(1)(n), PCAA 1960	Cognizable
Promoting or participating in animal shooting matches or competitions	Section 11(1)(o), PCAA 1960	Cognizable
Engaging in sexual acts with animals, mutilating or inserting foreign objects (rods, bottles, etc) in private organs of animals	Section 377, IPC Section 11(1)(a), PCAA 1960	Cognizable, Non-Bailable
Stealing or forcibly taking away a pet dog or any other animal	Section 378, IPC Section 11, PCAA 1960	Cognizable, Non-Bailable

Unfortunately, the punishment for cruelty towards animals as listed under Section 11 of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1960 is not severe. First-time offenders may attract a fine of up to ₹50/-. Repeated offenders may be fined up to ₹100/- or up to 3-months imprisonment, or both. Repeated offenders (in case of over-riding or over-driving offences) may lose their driver’s license. Pet owners who’re convicted for a repeated offence may not be permitted to keep pets again.
 
However, after widespread criticism from animal activists (#NoMore50) and recent directives from the Hon’ble Supreme Court, the Indian Government is finally evaluating a bill to revise the penalties for offences against animals. The proposed plan suggests raising the fine to ₹6,000/- instead of ₹50/-. According to ThePrint, the bill is supported by several MPs, including Shashi Tharoor, Poonam Mahajan, Baijayant ‘Jay’ Panda, Varun Gandhi and Meenakshi Lekhi.
 
Theft of a pet animal may fetch the offenders up to 3-years prison time under Section 378 of the Indian Penal Code. Killing or poisoning an animal is punishable under Section 428 of IPC by up to 2-years imprisonment or fine or both. If the animal is a pet (value above ₹50/-), the jail-time could go up to 5 years under Section 429 of IPC.
 
In case a person is convicted of engaging in unnatural sex with an animal, he can be penalized under Section 377 of the Indian Penal Code. Offenders found guilty of mutilating or inserting rods, bottles, or any other object in private organs of animals can also be prosecuted under this section. Perpetrators under this section are subject to life imprisonment, or up to 10 years of rigorous jail-time, and a fine.
 

 

Protection of People Caring for Animals

If you love and care for stray animals and haven’t been harassed by your neighbors, RWA bodies, or other random people – consider yourself lucky! Most others are not as much. Almost everyone tending to strays in their area, and even pet-parents have been subjected to some kind of hostility or the other. Hence, we’ve also compiled a list of legal rights and provisions for anybody who cares for animals in the area.
 
Article 51-A (g) of the Constitution of India states that “It shall be the duty of every citizen of India to protect & improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, and wildlife and to have compassion for living creatures.” Hence, the animal lover is protected under the Constitution.
 
Article 19 (1)(g) of the Constitution imparts all citizens the right to practice any profession or to carry on any occupation, trade or business. Therefore, if someone takes up caring for animals as their occupation, it is legal and he has every right to carry on with his occupation. Article 21 guarantees the protection of life and personal liberty. Hence, if someone wants to feed and provide shelter to dogs, he is at liberty to do so.
 
Articles 25, 26, 27 and 28 of the Constitution, provide religious freedom to all citizens and preserves the principle of Secularism in India. According to the Constitution, all religions are equal before the state. All citizens are free to preach, practice and propagate any religion of their choice. Feeding animals, like dogs, is a part of many religions.
 
If anyone threatens or intimidates any person keeping pets or taking care of stray animals, they can be booked for Criminal Intimidation u/s 503 of IPC. This is a cognizable offence and can attract up to 2-years imprisonment u/s 506 of the Indian Penal Code, 1860. If they threaten to cause grievous hurt or death or abuse a woman pet lover – the sentence may extend to 7-years with fine. Any physical violence or assault on pet lovers is punishable by jail time of up to 3-months and a fine of ₹500/- u/s 352 of IPC.
 
The Delhi High Court, while hearing Writ Petition (CRL) No. 1101/2009, had also issued a directive to Delhi Police to “ensure that no harm is caused to the volunteers feeding dogs, provided that they feed them only during the hours as specified by the Animal Welfare Board”. A Government of India circular (Dy No 1237 dated 30/9/2006) orders that “no resident or association will interfere with the freedom of other residents in caring and attending animals. Intimidating in any manner, those who feed and care for animals is a criminal offence. Apart from action under appropriate criminal law, such persons will render themselves liable for action under CCS Conduct Rules.”

It’s important to note that all animal caretakers and feeders must register with the AWBI and obtain their ID cards. These cards will assist in seeking police protection or legal remedies in an unpleasant situation.

The Guidelines with respect to Pet & Street Dogs, and their Care-Givers, and for Resident’s Welfare Associations and Apartment Owners Associations issued by the AWBI on 26/02/2015 clearly state that no RWA or other resident bodies can restrict residents from keeping pets. The RWAs cannot even impose restrictions such as “small dogs only” on residents, and pet’s access to parks, elevators, and common areas cannot be banned.
 
However, just because we love animals, it does not mean that we shall not be considerate about the safety of the neighborhood and other residents who are not as comfortable with animals. Courts have, time and again, emphasized that if the feeding of dogs creates nuisance in the locality or blocks common passage or pathways in an area, it may cause inconvenience to the other residents, and should be avoided at all costs.
 
Dog feces (poop) is another important cause of inconvenience to residents. Feeders must ensure that they only feed the animals in designated areas, and animals are toilet-trained to ensure cleanliness and hygiene. The AWBI 2015 bylaws also instruct the pet-owners to be mindful of the comfort, safety, and hygiene of other residents.
 

 

Relocation of Stray Dogs & Animal Birth Control

Societies, RWAs or other resident organizations are often found removing or driving out stray dogs from areas. They often hire dog catchers or other professionals to pick up dogs and relocate them elsewhere. This often causes problems of territorial aggression among dog packs, resulting in increased risk of dog bites. This can also potentially result in outbreaks of diseases.
 
Relocation of stray animals is strictly prohibited under the law. The 2006 Government circular (Dy No 1237 dated 30/9/2006) specifically directs RWAs and other resident bodies to refrain from relocating stray dogs from their natural habitat. The circular suggests that if any residential society is facing issues with stray animals, they must only contact the designated authorities to handle the situation. No action can be taken against the animals by the RWAs or other citizen associations.
 
The Animal Birth Control (Dogs) Rules, 2001 states that sterilization of stray animals must only be conducted by authorized agencies (Municipal or Registered Non-Government Organizations). These rules also dictate that the dogs must be released in the same area after sterilization and due vaccination. Even the Supreme Court of India has prohibited the culling & dislocation of stray dogs.
 
Legal implications kept aside, stray dogs are, in fact, good for the community. Not only they act as guards and alert the residents of potential intruders, but they also keep the population of snakes and rodents in check. Stray dogs mostly scavenge on human waste, and there’d be huge piles of rotting, stinking garbage if it weren’t for these animals.
 

 

Pets’ Access to Public Parks & Common Areas

The AWBI has issued the Guidelines for allowing Pet Dogs in Public Parks in 2016 following an order dated 12/11/2014 passed by the Hon’ble High Court of Delhi in WP(C) No. 7731/2014. This states that no pet animal shall be banned from access to any public park or other common areas owned by the DDA or other local administrative authorities like RWAs. However, the pets must be leashed and accompanied by an adult.
 
The guideline orders all public parks to remove signage such as “Pets/Dogs are strictly prohibited in the Park”. The parks may specify reasonable timings during the morning and evening hours when pet owners may take their pets on a walk. And these timings can change according to the season. Pet parents are also required to put their dogs on a leash, maximum 6 feet long, and must carry poop scooping equipment or bags.
 
The RWAs also cannot restrict or ban access to lifts or elevators for pets or their owners, provided the pets are on a leash and attended. However, if there are multiple working lifts, the RWAs may designate one or more for use of pets. Pet owners and residents are expected to abide by such reasonable restrictions.
 
These restrictions are imposed for the safety and welfare of common residents while ensuring coexistence and inclusivity of pets. Walking the dogs on pavements is difficult and dangerous – for both, the pets as well as the pedestrians.

SEE ALSO: How to Walk Your Dog

Special Cases

The above clauses cover most real-world scenarios involving pets, strays and the people who look after them. However, there are some special cases which may need additional discussion. Let’s look at them:
 

Birds

All Indian species of birds are protected under the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972. Therefore, it is illegal to possess any Indian bird. Certain exotic species of birds can be kept, but only if the owner or seller can prove that they have been imported from outside the country. The seller must have an import license and permission from the CITES bureau.
 

 
Possession or sale of a ‘wild bird’ of a protected species may be considered ‘hunting’ in the eyes of the law. This is a cognizable offence, punishable by up to 3-years imprisonment and ₹25,000/- fine under Section 51 of the WPA 1972.
 
Even exotic birds are protected in the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1960. A cage that’s not big enough for the bird to freely move around, or failure to provide adequate food, water or shelter to the bird may attract penalties u/s Section 11(1)(e) & (h) of this act. That’s why it’s best to not keep birds as pets. Birds belong in the sky, not in cages!
 

Cows & other Dairy Animals

All milch animals are protected under the PCA Act (59 of 1960). Often we’ve noticed dairy farmers using phoonka or doom dev or other unethical techniques including the use of Oxytoxin injections to increase milk production. This is illegal and punishable by up to 2-years imprisonment and ₹1,000/- fine.
 
Letting cows, buffaloes or other animals on the streets, unattended could amount to offences under Section 11 of the PCA Act and Section 289 of IPC. Negligence towards an animal resulting in danger to public health or safety is a cognizable offence punishable by ₹1,000/- and up to 6 months prison time. This is also an offense u/s 98 of the Delhi Police Act, 1978.
 

Circus & Performing Animals

Performing Animals are used for the purpose of entertainment. Animals used at Circuses and in films are included in this classification. Section 22 of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1960 prohibits any person to use, exhibit or train such animals without due registration. Bears, Monkeys, Tigers, Panthers, and Lions are banned from all such activities.
 

 
The profession of Madaris or Saperas (snake charmer) is also illegal. No private person in India is allowed to capture, own, buy, sell, train or show any wild animals for public exhibition. Monkeys, Snakes, Bears, Mongoose, and Parakeets are all protected under the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972 and cannot be used. Any man in possession of such animals can be arrested without a warrant (cognizable offence) and can be sentenced up to 3-years imprisonment and ₹25,000/- fine under Section 51 of this act. Violation of Section 22 of the PCA Act 1960 may attract additional penalties in this case.

In 2013 India made it illegal to use captive dolphins for public entertainment.

Use of animals for military or police purposes, like sniffer dogs, etc are exempted under Section 27 of the PCA Act 1960. However, such animals must still be treated with compassion and are protected under Section 11.
 

Draught & Pack Animals

Animals used to draw carts or carry heavy loads are classified as Draught & Pack Animals. Bullocks, Buffaloes, Horses, Ponies, and Camels are examples of such animals. Maximum load restrictions, work timings, and conditions for draught & pack animals are prescribed in the Prevention Of Cruelty To Draught And Pack Animals Rules,1965.
 

Animal Trade Fairs

Animal fairs where trading of cattle & livestock animals takes place are very common in our country, especially in rural India. Pushkar Mela in Rajasthan is one of the biggest of such fairs, where camel, horses, and livestock animals are sold in big numbers. Although cattle fairs have been very normal for the farmers, they recently became a sourcing platform for butchers. There are now laws to ensure this doesn’t happen. Heavy vehicles like trucks etc are prohibited near the event venues to prevent illegal transport of animals. Local municipal bodies are alert and on the lookout for offenders at these events. Various NGOs and other bodies provide counseling to farmers and a record of all animals sold is maintained to avoid malpractice.
 

 

Transportation of Animals

The Transport of Animals Rules of 1978 prescribe the regulations for the transport of animals for various purposes. This includes the minimum space requirements for the animals during transport, the maximum number of animals that can be transported at a given time and using a particular vehicle or mode of transport.
 

Slaughtering & Sale of Meat at Shops

The Slaughter House Rules of 2001 lay down the regulations for the registration & operation of slaughterhouses. These rules also define what animals can and cannot be slaughtered. They also prohibit the slaughtering of any animal that’s less than 3 months of age, is pregnant or has an offspring that’s less than 3 months old, or hasn’t been deemed fit for slaughtering by a veterinary officer. The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) set forth the guidelines to ensure that the slaughtering is conducted in a humane manner.
 
While humane slaughtering may sound like an oxymoron, there are provisions to ensure that the animals do not undergo unnecessary pain & suffering. These animals too are protected under Section 11 of PCA Act 1960.
 
Slaughterhouses and meat shops (where animals are not slaughtered, but their meat is sold) have to comply with the various laws of the local Municipal Corporations and the provisions under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (Slaughter House) Rules, 2001. These regulate the sale of meat and ensure clean & hygienic conditions at meat stalls. Slaughtering is strictly prohibited in residential areas, unlicensed institutions, or roadside shops.
 
Cow slaughter is banned in all states except Kerala, Goa, Karnataka, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram, Meghalaya, Nagaland, and Tripura. Article 48 of the Constitution of India prescribes the state to prohibit the slaughter of cows and calves and other milch and draught cattle.
 

Animal Sacrifices

Animal sacrifice or ritual killing of animals is illegal in India. This is covered under the Local Municipal Corporation Acts, Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act, 1960, Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972, and the Indian Penal Code (IPC). It is also specifically forbidden in many states under The Prohibition of Bird and Animal Sacrifice Act.
 
However, the Constitution empowers every citizen to practice a religion of their choice and the rituals related to it, animal sacrifice included. Even the Supreme Court has sanctioned the slaughter of animals for religious purposes, like during Bakri-Eid. Sadly enough, the PCA Act does not override the religious freedom provided to our citizens in the Constitution of India.
 

Experiments on Animals

The Breeding of and Experiments on Animals (Control and Supervision) Rules, 1998 lays down the various guidelines and rules for conducting experiments on animals. It also controls who can breed and sell such animals. It also provisions for the conditions under which these animals must be kept and made to work. Even animals meant for performing experiments are protected under the provisions of Section 11 of the PCA Act of 1960.
 

 
A 2006 amendment specifies that experimenters must first try to use animals “lowest on the phylogenetic scale“, use the minimum number of animals for 95% statistical confidence, and justify not using non-animal alternatives. A 2013 amendment bans the use of live animal experiments in medical education. In 2014 India became the first country in Asia to ban all testing of cosmetics on animals and the import of cosmetics tested on animals (Rule 148C and 135B of The Drug & Cosmetic Rules, 1945).
 

Police & their Role in Preventing Cruelty to Animals

Section 34 of The Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act, 1960 empowers the Police to stop acts of cruelty towards an animal. If such an incident is reported to the Police, they are empowered to seize the animal and present it before a Magistrate u/s 35 of this act. If the offense is cognizable, the Police can immediately arrest the accused and confiscate the animal in question. In cases of grave offences such as poisoning or killing the animal, the police must take the animal and other relevant evidence to a Veterinary Officer for examination. The Delhi Police Act 1968, Sections 73 to 79 also direct the police to take necessary action to prevent the cruelty to animals u/s 11 and 12 of the PCA Act 1960.
 
The police also have the right to inspect the premises where performing animals are kept or trained, or slaughterhouses and question the people concerned. They can also stop a cart or vehicle suspected of overloading draught animals and question them. If a violation of the Wildlife Protection Act is reported, the Police are authorized to arrest and detain the accused without a warrant, under section 50.
 
If you see an act of cruelty to an animal, report it immediately to the local Police Station. An FIR can be registered against the offender under one or more of the sections described above. It may be noted that the cases regarding cruelty to animals are seldom registered, due to their unusual nature. The police may show resistance initially and may not even take the offence seriously in some cases.
 
However, please do not refrain from insisting on them the need and urgency of the matter. They too are obligated by Article 51-A (g) of the Constitution to protect & improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, and wildlife and to have compassion for living creatures. They might just need a friendly reminder.
 
If nothing works, you can always contact the local office of the Animal Welfare Board of India or another local animal welfare organization near you.

Agreed that the laws for the protection of animals are not strong enough yet. There are several exceptions and loop-holes that the accused may exploit to escape justice. And even if they’re convicted, the penalties are not severe enough. The police and authorities too may lack interest and the will to assist in most cases. However, it’s important that we seek all legal options available, every time we notice an act of cruelty towards a voiceless animal. If not the fear of penalties, at least the hassle of paperwork and legal formalities will keep the perpetrators at bay.

The Indian Pariah, commonly known as the Desi Dogs or INDogs (Indian Native Dogs), is one of the oldest and most common breeds of aboriginal dogs on the Indian subcontinent. You can spot them in almost every nook and corner, in rather overwhelming numbers, across parts of India, Pakistan, Nepal, and Bangladesh. They’re known by different local names across the region and may slightly differ in appearance and size, based on the temperature, terrain & other climatic factors – but they’re truly Desi at heart.

Having been a subject of neglect and contempt for hundreds of years, the Indian Pariah dogs are gradually getting some attention & acceptance in recent years. Even though they are not yet recognized as a standard breed by major kennel clubs across the world, they’re being widely accepted as pets, companions and even as working line and service dogs. The INDogs also featured on National Geographic Channel’s film, Search for the First Dog, first aired in the year 2003.
 
Smart, friendly & agile, the Indian Pariahs are in no way less than their pedigreed counterparts. What they lack in trainability and tenacity, they make up for in their genetic buildup and resilience to diseases. They’re independent and yet highly adaptable, making them the perfect pet for every household.
 

 

The History & Evolution of the Indian Native Dog

Pariah Dogs refer to free-ranging dogs that survive on waste from human settlements. The term “Pariah” is derived from the Tamil word paraiyar which translates to “social outcast”. Some believe its root in the Anglo-Indian word pye (pae) or Hindi term pahi, which means “outsider” – an ironical name for one of the oldest known indigenous dog breeds.
 
The exact origin of this breed is unknown but archeological evidence dates it back to the Neolithic times, also known as the Late Stone Age – approximately 12,000 to 15,000 years ago. They’ve been a part of the journey of human civilization ever since. For years, the INDogs have been used as hunting companions by several tribes across the country. The Indian Pariah dogs have been celebrated in various sculptures and paintings throughout history. They have been a part of Indian mythology and folklore, making them an integral part of our art, culture and heritage.
 

 
The Indian Pariah dogs, as we see today, are a result of thousands of years of Evolution. They’re one of the only breeds of dogs that are originated out of Natural Selection, not selective breeding. Selective Breeding (or Artificial Selection) is a breeding practice that’s used to accentuate certain desirable traits and diminish undesirable characteristics in pedigree dogs. That’s what makes a Poodle so different from a St. Bernard, even though both belong to the same genetic species (Canis lupus familiaris). Desi dogs have evolved over time to develop characteristics that were essential for their survival in their local environment. They’re part of the primitive group of dog breeds. All other dog breeds are believed to be bred out of them using artificial selection.

SEE ALSO: The Evolution & Types of Dogs

It’s fascinating to note their close resemblance to primitive breeds from other continents – namely the Australian Dingo, the Canaan Dog of Israel, the New Guinea Singing Dog and the Central African village dog, ancestor of the African Basenji. Even though these breeds evolved naturally in different parts of the world – with no genetic mingling – the similarities among them are astounding. It’s like Nature brought them all to a common equilibrium – the perfect prototype of the domestic dog.
 

The INDogs VS the Indian Street Dogs

India accounts for the largest population of stray dogs in the world and people often assume they’re all Indian Pariahs. Yes, desi dogs are native to India – but a vast majority of urban free-ranging dogs on our streets are either mixed-breed dogs or urban landraces similar to the Indian Pariah. While more accurately referred to as mutts or mongrels, these dogs may sometimes resemble the Indian Pariah and often colloquially called ‘the Indies’.
 
Mongrelization or the mating of a primitive dog breed with a pedigree breed dog or another mixed-breed dog is one of the biggest threat to the Indian Pariah Dog breed. Second to that, is our love for foreign and exotic breeds – a probable byproduct of British colonization – neglecting and condemning our very own INDogs. It’s important that we recognize the Indian Pariah as a standard breed to preserve and flourish this smart, intelligent and versatile specimen of heritage and Evolution.
 

The Physical Appearance of the Indian Pariah Dog

Since the INDogs have evolved naturally over the millenniums and a wide geographic area, they differ in appearance across regions. Unlike pedigree dog breeds that are artificially created by humans through selective breeding, the breed standards of Pariah dogs are often more flexible and allow room for natural variation in size, colors, etc. There is also a variation seen in the rural and urban specimens of the INDogs. However, these variations are limited to physical appearance only, the temperament of all dogs remain pretty much the same.
 

 
They’re medium sized dogs, with adult males ranging in 20 – 25 inches height and 20 – 30 kgs weight. Adult females are a few inches shorter and few kilos lighter. They have a short, but dense double coat that ranges from fawn to dark brown color, sometimes pied with black or white. Solid black INDogs are rare. Spots and white markings are usually observed in the undercoat, ends of limbs and tail. Their long and straight forelimbs and slightly curved hindlimbs allow them to run really fast in short trots.
 
They have a medium-sized, wedge-shaped head, a long, pointed muzzle that’s usually darker than the rest of the body, and jaws with a clean, scissor bite. Their eyes are almond-shaped and dark brown in color, ears are held firm and erect – broad at the base and pointed at the tips. The tail is curled, held high in the excited state, wags vigorously on spotting a friend.
 
Long coats, drooping ears, short muzzle, light-colored eyes, pure white or dalmatian-like spotted coats are considered faults. Similarly, oversized, undersized, overweight dogs or dogs with loose or drooping skin are also considered breed faults.
 

The Personality of an Indian Pariah Dog

It’s important to acknowledge & understand that the Indian Pariahs have evolved as independent dogs living in packs. Thus, their personality is a net effect of the evolutionary changes they had to undergo to survive their environment. Let’s look at various aspects of their personality and understand what they mean for us as pet parents.
 
Easily trainable but gets bored quickly
The Indian Pariahs are extremely smart, intelligent and pick up training commands really quickly. However, these dogs get bored early and do not indulge in the typical, repetitive dog games like ‘fetch’. They constantly need mental stimuli and love exploring new things, smells and experiences.
 
Friendly but needs to socialize early
The INDogs are very social animals. They love to live in packs and are extremely good with children and other pets. But if not socialized early, they may develop anxiety and distrust amidst other humans. They do not trust strangers easily and may exhibit signs of aggression when confronted or cornered by new people.
 

 
Territorial and protective of their pack
Their natural habitat and the evolutionary journey has made them extremely territorial in nature. They’re usually very protective of their family/pack and may resort to extreme measures if they sense a danger to their pack. If you’re parenting an Indie, you may want to put up that “Beware of the Dog” door-sign.
 
Very active breed and thrives on regular exercise
Desi dogs were bred for a life in the wild (or urban wild, in the case of our city dogs). They are a very active breed and never shy away from a long walk, run or swim. But if for some reason, your INDog doesn’t receive enough physical workout every day, beware that they may resort to destructive behavior. Large houses with vast open spaces are ideal for these dogs, apartments with a terrace or parks nearby could also work.

SEE ALSO: Simple Exercises to Keep Your Dog Healthy & Happy

Modest eaters, but can easily turn fussy
The Indian Pariah dogs are very modest eaters, can eat and survive on almost any food, and have a small appetite. But that means that we can easily tend to overfeed them – which triggers behavioral problems such as selective or picky eating. It’s important that you watch out your Indie’s diet and only feed as much is necessary. Overfeeding can have serious consequences – obesity and behavioral shift to selective eating habits, to name a few.

SEE ALSO: How to Fix your Dog’s Selective Eating Habits

Extremely alert but sometimes noisy
Their evolution, often close to wild (or urban setup of the cities) – where predators or threats are common, have made them extremely cautious and alert of their surroundings. They bark at the slightest doubt – making them a perfect watchdog. However, this habit may cause some trouble for apartment dwellers – especially if your neighbors often complain of noise.
 

 

Common Medical & Health Problems with INDogs

The Indian Pariah is one of the healthiest breeds of dogs. Being a naturally evolved and perfected breed, they possess minimum to no genetic disorders. Common problems such as hip dysplasias and cancers that are common among artificially inbred dogs, are rare in INDogs. Even if a genetic defect occurs, it’s usually bred out in the coming generations by means of Natural Selection. Their vast ‘gene-pool’ means that only the fittest survive and get to extend their race.
 
They breed once a year and may deliver a litter of 6 – 8 pups each season. They are a healthy dog breed overall with minimum to no veterinary expenses except the vaccination routine. The average lifespan of INDogs is 13 to 16 years, under good care.
 

General Care & Parenting Tips for Desi Dogs

INDogs are generally very low-maintenance dogs. Having bred for the Indian conditions, they can easily adapt into any setting. However, the following few basics must be kept in mind while parenting a Desi Dog:
 

Nutrition

The Indian Native Dogs have traditionally been scavenging human waste or hunting small prey animals for food. They are not big eaters and need minimal food to survive. They have a strong digestive system, healthy metabolism and can digest a variety of diets. Their bodies are designed to make the best out of the food they receive.
 
But it’s important that as responsible pet parents, we give them a healthy and balanced diet. Like most other canines, a bulk of your Indian Pariah dog’s diet must consist of meat-based proteins and fats. Since they are always full of energy, some carbs are needed to fuel their agility & activity. But it’s important to keep a tab on their diet. It’s very easy to overfeed a Desi Dog, and that can have its consequences.
 
Obesity is very common in Indian Urban Dawgies. Indian Pariahs tend to gain weight easily, especially if they eat more and burn fewer calories. Overfeeding also gives way to selective eating. When we overfeed a dog and offer little or no exercise to burn those calories up – he hardly feels hungry or excited for the next meal. Such a dog is almost certain to reject the meal when served. If we replace that meal with something more exciting than the last, the dog may eat it – but we may be thrown into a vicious circle – gradually pushing the dog to a negative behavioral pattern that none of us enjoy after a certain point.
 
It’s important that we watch out for what and how much our desi darlings eat, and ensure that they feed on a nutritionally balanced and biologically appropriate diet.
 

Grooming

Desi Dogs need minimum to no attention to their grooming. They shed very little, and their coat requires almost no maintenance. They’re well suited for the tropical weather but may not handle extreme cold that well. These dogs are relatively very clean and have almost zero body odor. They can be given an occasional bath and can dry themselves up really quickly in the sun – thanks to their short coat.
 
They are prone to ticks and fleas and may need regular inspections to weed out any parasites that may infest them.

SEE ALSO: Skin Problems in Dogs

Exercise

As mentioned earlier, Desi Dogs need a lot of physical & mental exercises. They have a smart mind and a very energetic body. If not put to good use, their mind and body force them to resort to destructive behavior. A tired dog is a happy dog. A tired Indie, though, means a happy and untattered couch and mattresses.
 
These dogs have traditionally been used to hunt and kill, and enjoy almost all kinds of adventure. A house with big open spaces is ideal for them to run around and expend all the energy that bubbles up inside their athletic body. If that’s not available, make sure you take your dog out for regular walks, runs, and occasional swims.
 

The Indian Pariah has been officially recognized by the Primitive and Aboriginal Dog Society (PADS), but still longs for the love and social respect that an amazing breed such as the INDogs deserves. It’s time we acknowledge and take pride in the fact that the oldest known dog breed in the world runs and barks in our country. Its vast ‘gene-pool’ makes it one of the healthiest dog breeds and opens up unlimited possibilities. Studying their genetic makeup can help us eradicate some of the most dangerous diseases from the face of the Earth. Above all, they’re a beautiful chronicle of how Evolution works its way across generations to create the most perfect version of man’s best friend.
 
 
We’d like to thank The INDog Project for years of research & hard work to help us all understand our Desis a little better. Their work has been instrumental in helping us compile this article.